Bermuda grass seed is highly sought after because it germinates quickly, creates lush coverage, and is extremely drought- and heat-resistant. Plus, it’s pretty easy to grow and maintain, especially in hot climates. 

Still, to ensure the longevity of a Bermuda grass seed lawn, it’s important to understand how to take care of Bermuda grass—before, during, and after planting. 

Understanding Bermuda Grass

Bermuda grass is known for its tolerance to heat, drought, high traffic, and salt, but it also requires a lot of sunlight and drainage and doesn’t perform well in colder temperatures. 

Withstands High Traffic

Bermuda grass has high buoyancy and can bounce back after being stepped on or damaged by heavy traffic. This is why it’s often the choice for golf courses and sports fields in the South. 

Complex Root System

One reason this variety performs so well is its extensive root system. Bermuda grass seed grows stolons above ground and deep-rooted stems called rhizomes below ground. This system allows the grass to repair easily after injury and makes fixing bare patches easy.

Tolerant to Salt

Bermuda grass seed is also popular among coastal regions because of its tolerance to salt. Sea spray and coastal storms bring salt to residential lawns, which can be very damaging. Salt can dehydrate grass and prevent it from completing photosynthesis, but Bermuda can withstand this interference. 

Requires Warm Weather 

When growing a lawn from Bermuda grass seed, it’s crucial to choose regions that don’t get too cold. This grass variety thrives in warm weather and withstands heat, but it is also very sensitive to cold temperatures and can die when exposed to frost. In areas with moderate winters, Bermuda grass becomes dormant and brown during the season. 

Does Best in Full Sunlight

Along with warmth, the best Bermuda grass seed also needs a lot of sunlight to thrive. These seeds need at least 6–8 hours of sunlight daily and won’t perform well in shaded areas. This is another reason it’s such a popular choice for golf courses exposed to full sunlight.

Needs Good Drainage

Proper drainage is another essential factor to consider when determining how to care for Bermuda grass. Along with proper grading, Bermuda grass often requires drainage systems like ditches or French drains. Low spots in a lawn that pool water can cause this variety to fail.

Soil Preparation

Like all grass installations, Bermuda grass seed requires proper soil preparation before planting. There are several things you can do to get an area ready for seeding:

1. Weed and Clear Debris

First and foremost, remove weeds, yard waste, rocks, and other debris. A clean slate is essential for proper germination when starting a new lawn with Bermuda grass seed. 

2. Test Soil pH

Bermuda grass seed grows best in slightly acidic soil. Make sure your soil pH is between 5.8 and 7. You can use lime to raise acidity and sulfur to reduce acidity.

3. Amend Soil

Along with adjusting pH, you will probably need to amend your soil with humus or compost. This will help with drainage, especially in clay-like soil.

4. Level and Water

Once the soil is clear of debris and at a good acidity level, you should level the ground and water the soil. This will help ensure good drainage and prepare the soil for planting. 

5. Fertilizer

Apply a starter or “slow-release” fertilizer to the soil as a last step before planting Bermuda grass seed. Avoid “weed and feed” fertilizers, formulated for established lawns. 

Planting Bermuda Grass

Once the area for planting is prepared, you can install Bermuda grass in a few different ways: seed, sprig, and sod. 

Bermuda Grass Seed

Bermuda grass seed should be planted about 2-41–2 lbs per 1,000 square feet. Use a seed broadcast spreader to ensure even distribution. Late spring and early summer is a great time to grow this variety from seed. 

Bermuda Grass Sprigs

Bermuda grass can also be grown from sprigs, which are stems (rhizomes or stolons) from the established plant. Sprigs should be planted in spring.

Bermuda Grass Sod

Sod (patches of established grass) is another popular choice for installing Bermuda grass, but can be more expensive. A sod lawn should be laid in a brick pattern (staggering). Late spring and early summer is a good time to plant Bermuda grass sod. 

Watering and Mowing

Whether you’ve planted Bermuda grass seed, sprigs, or sod, it’s crucial to water the entire area thoroughly after installation. 

Continue watering several times a day for 2 weeks to keep the soil moist—especially when dealing with Bermuda grass seed. 

Once a Bermuda grass lawn is established, you can water it once or twice weekly, providing about an inch of water each time. 

Wait until the grass is a few inches tall before mowing. It’s best to wait about a month.

Seasonal Care

It’s important to understand how to care for Bermuda grass throughout the year, as different seasons call for different maintenance methods. 

Spring and Summer

In the warmer months of the year, Bermuda grass should thrive. Aerate the lawn during this time, water and mow often, and apply fertilizer.

Fall

You can begin reducing the frequency of your watering during the fall. Watch for weeds and pests. You may also want to apply a fungicide at the start of the fall season. 

Winter

Most Bermuda grass lawns experience a period of dormancy in the winter. The grass may turn brown, but this doesn’t mean it has died. During the winter, water Bermuda grass less frequently: once every other week or less if it rains. Continue to mow if there is growth, but avoid cutting too short, as this can encourage disease.

Conclusion

If you live in a hot or coastal region of the United States, Bermuda grass seed is an excellent choice for planting a new lawn. Find Bermuda grass and other high-quality popular options for your region at Nature’s Seed.

The best time to plant grass seed depends on several factors, including where you live. Even if you time everything perfectly, without a seed variety that grows well in your region, you probably won’t see the results you’re hoping for. Read more to find out the best time to plant grass seed in 11 major growth zones in the United States.

Best Time to Plant Grass Based on Type

Before you spend weeks planting and watering a new lawn, it’s important that you understand which type of grass seed you’re dealing with. Timing depends on whether you’re dealing with cool- or warm-season varieties. 

Cool Season Grass

As a general rule, cool-season grasses should be planted in the fall (when temperatures get cooler). These varieties perform well in colder climates. Examples of cool-season grasses include:

• Fescue
• Ryegrass
• Kentucky bluegrass 
• Bentgrass

Warm Season Grass 

Warm-season grass seed should be planted in the spring or late spring. You can remember this rule because spring means the weather is “warming up.” Warm-season grasses are popular in the south because they perform well in heat. Examples of warm-season grasses include:

• Bahia
• Bermudagrass
• Zoysia 
• Buffalograss

Best Time to Plant Grass Seed Based on Region 

If you’re wondering, “When is the best time to plant grass seed in the spring?” the answer still depends on the type of seed, and your growing zone. This list covers the best time to plant grass seed in 11 major growth zones in the United States.

1. Great Lakes/ New England

The best time to plant grass seed in the northeast is the fall because cool-season grasses can withstand harsh winters. In a typical year, you can start planting grass seed in New England and the Great Lakes region after Labor Day. 

September 3rd–September 15th is a good window because the ground should still be relatively warm, but not too hot. 

2. Midwest

The best time to plant grass seed in the midwest is also the fall, as temperatures can drop significantly in the winter. Generally, between the middle of August and the middle of September should work.

We recommend a window of August 20th–Labor Day, as long as it’s not an unusually hot summer.

3. South Atlantic 

The south Atlantic region of the US is a transitional region, meaning both cool- and warm-season grasses are common. 

• For warm-season grasses, you can usually plant grass seed in early spring, between March 15th–March 31st.

• For cool-season grasses, early fall is best. August 30th–September 15th.

4. Southern Subtropics

Warm-season grasses are typically more common in the southern subtropics. States like Louisiana, Alabama, and Georgia should plant in the spring. 

Planting around Memorial Day is usually a safe bet: May 25th–June 5th

5. Great Plains

The Great Plains is another region that commonly plants cool-season grasses like fescue and Kentucky bluegrass. 

Shoot for a window between August 15th–September 15th for best results. 

6. Southwest Steppe 

The best time to plant grass seed in the southwest steppe (areas like San Antonio and Odessa), is late spring. Warm-season grasses like Bermudagrass do well when the soil is warmed up. 

Memorial Day–June 10th is typically a good window. 

7. Intermountain West

The intermountain west region is expansive—covering northern Utah, all of Idaho and Montana, and eastern Washington and Oregon. Because these areas all typically experience freezing winters, cool-season grasses are common. 

Early fall, Labor Day–September 15th, is an ideal time to seed in these states.

8. Southwest Transitional 

Southern Utah, northern Arizona, and central Nevada are relatively warm throughout the year, but this area is still considered a transitional zone. 

For warm-season grasses, plant between April 1st–April 15th.

Cool-season grasses in this region can be planted throughout the year, avoiding the hottest months of May–August. February and October are both common months for planting cool-season grass here.

9. Southwest Desert

Though temperatures are warmer in this area, both warm- and cool-season grasses are common. 

In Las Vegas, Phoenix, and surrounding areas, plan to plant warm grasses around Memorial Day, and cool season grasses September 20th–October 10th.

10. Pacific Northwest

 In the Pacific Northwest, the best time to plant warm-season grass seed is before Memorial Day—May 1st–May 15th. The best time for cool-season grass is after Labor Day—September 5th–September 20th.

11. Pacific Southwest

Much of the Pacific Southwest experiences mild weather year-round, so several varieties of grass seed are popular. In California, early fall and late spring are great times to plant grass seed. 

For warm-season grasses, aim for May 20th–June 15th. For cool-season grasses, September 25th–October 15th.

Check out our SeedSelector Map for a full list of grass seed varieties by region.

Learn More About Grass Seed at Nature’s Seed

Once you’re familiar with the types of grass that grow best in your area, you can select the best time to plant grass seed for your region. 

Find high-quality grass seed varieties for every region at Nature’s Seed, and start growing a beautiful lawn today. 

1) Rake or Dethatch Your Yard

a. Before your first mow of the new year, rake your yard thoroughly to release matted grass clumps caused by snow mold, which can smother new growth. A spring-tine rake is recommended for this project. This will help alleviate thatch*

b. Be sure not to rake when soil is muddy or soft, which makes it more likely to pull up healthy grass crowns.

c. Clean up any twigs, branches, trash, and other debris.

d. Rake out dead grass patches.

2) Aerate Soil

a. One way to reduce thatch and the effect of compacted soil is to use a core aerator, which removes plugs of soil to allow for more air, water, and nutrients to reach grassroots.

b. Cool Season: Aerate in early spring or fall

c. Warm Season: Aerate from late spring to summer

d. Clay Soils/High Traffic Areas: Aerate once per year

e. Core aeration should be done every 2-3 years

TIP: If you have an issue with weeds and are using a pre-emergent herbicide, skip aeration in the spring.

3) Kick Weeds to the Curb

a. In the Northern U.S. apply a pre-emergent herbicide to help prevent weeds.

b. In the Southern U.S. use a pre-emergent herbicide to help prevent weeds, or hand-pull/apply a post-emergent to tackle weeds that have popped through.

4) Fertilize Grass

a. Apply fertilizer about 3 weeks after the grass starts to green, or following the first 2-3 mowings. If you apply too early, you run the risk of feeding weeds and creating fertilizer runoff.

b. Water your lawn a few days before applying fertilizer to avoid burning your grassroots. Follow directions to avoid over-fertilizing.

c. Use a seed spreader to ensure you apply the right amount of fertilizer and distribute it evenly across your grass.

5) Seed and Lime as Needed

a. Reseed in areas where there are bare spots or patchiness.

b. Apply a slow-release fertilizer at this time to help with new germination.

c. Early spring and fall are most ideal times for reseeding.

d. Spring is a great time to test your yard’s pH to determine if your soil is too acidic. Most grasses prefer soil that is between 5.8-7.2 pH. When soil is too acidic, you may see signs of weeds, disease, pests, and moss.

e. Soil pH changes over time, so testing annually will help keep you on top of your soil pH levels. Once your pH is balanced, you can test every 3 or so years.

f. If you need to add lime, only do so if absolutely necessary. Spring and fall are the best times to add lime. Your soil test results will let you know how much to apply to reach your pH goals.

TIP: If you can wait until fall for seeding, do so. Spring seeding requires extra weeding, watering, and attention throughout the summer.

6) Water!

a. Generally speaking, your lawn needs about 1 inch of water per week. This can come from irrigation or rain.

b. During spring or summer, water early in the morning or late at night, to avoid evaporation.

c. Water less frequently, and more deeply. This will reduce water usage and encourage your grass to grow a deep root system.

TIP: Is it time to water? Step on your lawn. If the blades bounce back slowly or are wilted, curled, or dull in color, it may be time to water.

7) Mowing and Lawn Care Tips

a. Inspecting your lawn mower in the spring is a great habit to get into. This is the time to perform maintenance, change your oil, change spark plugs, sharpen blades, etc.

b. Set your mower to remove only the top 1/3 of your grass blades and avoid mowing too close to the ground. Grass cut too low will allow sunlight to reach the soil and encourage weed growth.

TIP: If it’s your first mow of the season, set your mower in the sun for an hour or so before starting up. This will help warm it up for an easier start.

c. Mow in the early evening when temperatures are cooling down and remember not to mow when your lawn is wet.

d. Change directions each time you mow. This will prevent ruts from forming and keep your grass blades even.

e. Mowing should be down as needed. Your lawn may need to be mowed more often in the spring and early summer, than at the end of the growing season.

TIP: REMOVE spark plugs before performing maintenance on your lawn mower.

8) Dispose of Lawn Clippings as Needed

You CAN leave your grass clippings behind. It can help add nutrients back into your soil, create a home for pollinators and wildlife, and help your soil retain more moisture. However, if it starts to create a thick thatch layer – it’s time to go! Remove your clippings and add them to your compost pile – if you don’t use chemicals on your lawn.

Questions:

What is thatch?

Thatch is a layer of leaves, roots, and dead grass that builds up between soil and live grass. It can keep air and water from reaching your roots if it becomes too thick (1/2 inch or more). A thin layer can be beneficial in protecting your soil by retaining moisture and nutrients.

The three numbers on a bag of fertilizer – for example, 4-6-4 – represent the ratio (by percentage) of each nutrient. They are always in order as NPK. In the case of 4-6-4, the percentage is 4% Nitrogen, 6% Phosphorus, and 4% Potassium. In total, this equates to 14% (4% + 6% + 4%) of nutrients contained in this fertilizer and 86% of minor nutrients.

Conclusively, plants need around 16 nutrients to remain healthy, such as calcium, iron, and chlorine. Some nutrients are also passed on to soil and plants via air and water.

Nitrogen

Nitrogen is the first part of NPK. It plays a key role in plant coloring and chlorophyll production – making it an important factor in leaf development. High-nitrogen fertilizers are used for grass and plants where green foliage is more crucial than flowering.

How do I know if I might have a Nitrogen deficiency?
When grass or other plants are yellowing (starting with the youngest leaves), this can be a sign of nitrogen deficiency. However, it can also be a sign of too much Nitrogen. A soil test is crucial when you are at a crossroads.

Phosphorus

Phosphorus is the second part of NPK. It plays a key role in root development, seed formation, blooming, and fruiting. It’s essential for plants, particularly in the spring.

How do I know if I might have a Phosphorus deficiency?
If leaf or blade tips are brown and dying, this could indicate a Phosphorus deficiency.

Potassium

Potassium is the third and final part of NPK. It plays a key role in the overall vigor, health, and growth of plants. It strengthens a plant’s ability to resist disease and pests and strengthens a plant’s ability to absorb water and nutrients. Potassium is particularly important in climates that are cold and/or dry.

How do I know if I might have a Potassium deficiency?
If leaf margins on older leaves turn bright yellow and look scorched, or you find brown speckles covering your leaves or blades, you may have a Potassium deficiency.

Proper lawn care throughout the summer encourages a healthy, lush, and aesthetically pleasing lawn. Regular watering, mowing, and maintenance practices help maintain vibrant green color, thick turf, and a visually appealing lawn. Summer can bring intense heat, drought, and increased foot traffic on lawns.

By implementing appropriate care practices, such as deep watering, proper mowing, and pest control, you can help your lawn withstand these stressors and remain resilient.

Summer is a prime time for an influx in weed growth and pest infestations. Sustaining a healthy and well-maintained lawn helps reduce soil erosion, filters pollutants, improve air quality, and provides a beautiful place to enjoy. Whether it’s a backyard barbecue, a game of catch, or simply enjoying the view from your porch, your outdoor experience can certainly be enhanced by a healthy lawn.

Warm-Season Lawn Care

Watering: Deeply water your lawn infrequently, but thoroughly, especially during hot and dry periods. Aim to water approximately 1-1.5 inches per week: preferably in the morning or evening when air flow is at its calmest – to avoid evaporation. You can also set an automatic timer during this time to consistently water for you.

More lawn issues arise from overwatering than underwatering. Warm-season grasses are particularly drought-tolerant depending on your soil type. Sandy soils may require more frequent watering, but not necessarily more water per week. Avoid puddles and runoff.

Remember: Lingering footprints in grass and light blue-green color can be signs of minor drought. All grasses under stress are susceptible to disease.

Drought-tolerance: Warm-season grasses are typically more drought-tolerant than cool-season grasses. Allowing your lawn to partially dry out between waterings encourages deep root growth. This will help develop more robust root systems.

Sharpen Mower Blades: Ensure your mower blades are sharp enough to cleanly cut your lawn. Dull blades can tear the grass, leading to browning and disease susceptibility.

Mowing: In the summer, a shorter grass height is recommended for warm-season grasses. Keep the height between 2.5 and 3.5 inches.

Remember: Do not remove more than one-third of the grass height at the time of mowing – this avoids lawn stress. Also, scalping, or mowing too frequently can accelerate the growth rate, reduce quality, and canopy density, and encourage weed encroachment.

Fertilization: Apply a slow-release nitrogen-rich fertilizer in the late spring/early summer. About 0.5-1lb. per 1000 sq ft.

Remember: Be cautious not to overfertilize, as this can lead to excessive growth and increased maintenance requirements.

Weed Control: Monitor for weeds, and promptly address them. Apply pre-emergent herbicides in late spring or early summer to prevent germination of summer weeds – when temperatures are no higher than 85 degrees – as this can cause injury to turf. Spot-treat any existing weeds with appropriate post-emergent herbicides or remove them manually.

Remember: Even healthy grass can see weeds pop through here and there. Make sure to read your labels on when you should apply weed control and at what the max temperature for application is before applying.

Pest & Disease Management: Keep an eye out for common pests such as grubs, armyworms, or chinch bugs. Chinch bugs may sporadically occur in buffalograss or zoysiagrass. Billbug damage may occur on zoysiagrass. White grub damage is uncommon. Apply appropriate insecticides if necessary.

Maintain Irrigation Systems: Regularly check your irrigation system for leaks, clogs, or inefficiencies. Ensure that sprinklers are functioning, and that water is being distributed evenly across the lawn. Adjust settings as needed to provide even coverage.

Seeding: Now is the time you can begin establishment for warm-season grasses if you haven’t already! The risk of frost has passed, and now varieties such as buffalograss and zoysiagrass can be seeded or plugged.

Tips:

• Application of post-emergent herbicides is not recommended in the late summer (August-September); especially since herbicides have a max temperature they can be used before causing stress to your lawn. Summer annual weeds will naturally die after the first frost.
• Frequent shallow sprinkling of water is not recommended. It only encourages shallow, weak roots, crabgrass, and disease development.
• Now is a great time to get a soil test, to learn more about your soil!

Cool-Season Lawn Care

Watering: Deeply water your lawn infrequently, but thoroughly, especially during hot and dry periods. Aim to water approximately 1-1.5 inches per week: preferably in the morning or evening when air flow is at its calmest – to avoid evaporation. You can also set an automatic timer during this time to consistently water for you.

More lawn issues arise from overwatering than underwatering. Cool-season grasses are susceptible to fungal growth due to overwatering. Sandy soils may require more frequent watering, but not necessarily more water per week. Avoid puddles and runoff.

Remember: All grasses under stress are susceptible to disease.

Side Note: Bluegrasses, fescues, and other cool-season grasses naturally go semi-dormant to protect themselves in the summer during periods of high temperatures and drought. They can cease to grow or turn brown but bounce back quickly with sufficient water and cooler temperatures, typically by September. Due to its deep root system, tall fescue remains greener for a longer period during the summer than other cool-season grasses. 

Mowing: Adjust your mower blade to a higher setting to maintain a taller grass height. Longer grass shades the soil, reducing evaporation and weed growth. Keep the height between 2.5 and 3.5 inches. Allow clippings to remain on your lawn unless excessive.

Tall Fescue: 3-4 inches

Kentucky Bluegrass: 2-3.5 inches

Perennial Ryegrass: 2.5-3.5 inches

Fescue: 2-3 inches

Remember: Do not remove more than one-third of the grass height at the time of mowing – this avoids lawn stress. Also, scalping, or mowing too frequently can accelerate the growth rate, reduce quality, and canopy density, and encourage weed encroachment.

Sharpen Mower Blades: Ensure your mower blades are sharp enough to cleanly cut your lawn. Dull blades can tear the grass, leading to browning and disease susceptibility.

Fertilization: Avoid fertilizing cool-season grasses during the summer, as it can promote lush growth and increase water requirements. Early May is the best time to fertilize cool-season grasses.

Remember: Save fertilization for the fall when cool-season grass is actively growing.

Weed Control: Monitor for weeds, and promptly address them. Spot-treat any existing weeds with appropriate post-emergent herbicides or remove them manually.

Remember: Even healthy grass can see weeds pop through here and there. Make sure to read your labels on when you should apply weed control and at what the max temperature for application is before applying.

Pest & Disease Management: Keep an eye out for common pests such as grubs, armyworms, or chinch bugs. Apply appropriate insecticides if necessary.

Maintain Irrigation Systems: Regularly check your irrigation system for leaks, clogs, or inefficiencies. Ensure that sprinklers are functioning, and that water is being distributed evenly across the lawn. Adjust settings as needed to provide even coverage.

Tips:

• Cool-season grasses can be less tolerant to stress in hot weather, so it is recommended to limit heavy foot traffic and heavy objects on your lawn during the summer months.
• Frequent shallow sprinkling of water is not recommended. It only encourages shallow, weak roots, crabgrass, and disease development.
• In the last week of August, soak dormant lawns to start fall growth.
• Now is a great time to get a soil test, to learn more about your soil!

What will help me this season?

Organic Maintenance Fertilizer 18-1-8+fe

Organic-based slow-released nitrogen fertilizer blend with Iron; ideal for top-dressing lawns, fairways, and sports fields. Provides 12-16 weeks of nutrient release.

Organic Seed Starter Fertilizer 4-6-4

Organic-based slow-released starter fertilizer replenishes soils with a rich supply of humus and essential nutrients. Increase the nutrient and water-holding capacity of the soil., strengthens plants’ tolerance against dry conditions, increases soil’s ability to suppress plant pathogens, and increases soil porosity and stability for great root development and water-holding capacity.

Seed Aide® – Cover Grow, Water Retaining Seed Starting Mulch

Advanced technology pellet made from recycled wood and cellulose fibers. Pellets quickly expand when activated by water, dispersing to provide outstanding protection and water-holding performance where needed. Can be used as a spot treatment for bare spots, or hydro spraying larger areas.

Shoulder Strap Broadcast Seed Spreader

Corrosion, tear, and weather resistant 20lb. nylon bag hopper is equipped with a zippered top for easy filling and closure. Contoured modeled base, adjustable shoulder strap, rocking agitator, spring load shut-off, and a collapsable body for easy storage.

Weeds and dandelions germinate quickly, and they spread faster than other plants. Every year, the lush, velvety lawns of homeowners across the U.S. develop these yellow flower heads. Despite the culinary or pollination benefits of some weeds and dandelion, homeowners know that they must stop these prolific seed producers before they choke out other crops.

Five of the Most Common Lawn Weeds

Lawn weeds are an annual issue for homeowners because they germinate quickly and keep coming back. Through wind, birds, pollinators, and even lawnmowers, it only takes a couple of seeds to start a mass outbreak of weeds. The question is not if you’ll have weeds. The question is which species of weeds your lawn will support?

1) Dandelions

When the soil reaches 50*F, these persistent perennials pop out. They have a white, puffball seed head, which gets distributed quickly through the wind. Dandelions produce bright yellow blossoms but have a deep and lengthy taproot system that make them nearly invincible.

2) Broadleaf Plantain

Like the dandelion, broadleaf plantains are naturally adaptive and robust. They feature a broad set of leaves at the base and small, reed-like stems that pop out. Poorly-aerated soil and overwatered soil provide ideal growing conditions for this weed.

3) Crabgrass

If your lawn has bare or patchy areas, unsightly clumps of crabgrass will move in and bunch together. Crabgrass is distinguishable from real grass types because of its tendency to grow in clusters. Their thick, broad leaves that shoot out look very similar to blades of turfgrass. Some forms are rough to the touch because of tiny hairs on the leaves.

4) White Clover

Until the 1950s, grass seed mixes used white clover to help fix nitrogen in nutrient-poor soils. Our collective preference for a uniformly green lawn, however, sometimes makes white clover an unwelcome sight. These weeds have elliptical leaves and feature white to pink-tinged flower clusters growing from the stems. States with a cooler summertime climate and increased moisture experience an influx of these winter perennials.

5) Bull Thistle

Bull thistle is a biennial weed that rapidly forms large infestations along your lawn’s edging. From mid- to late-summer, bull thistle forms prickly hairs on the leaves and stems. As these weeds develop, their hairs turn into spines that are sharper and more painful to the touch. Bull thistle reproduces by seed which, like dandelions, spread through a variety of sources. Even though it crops up during the late summer season, you need to use elimination methods in either the fall or early spring.

How Do Weeds Germinate?

If you’re going to kill weeds and dandelions effectively, you need to know when they’re the most vulnerable. While you can still kill dandelions when they start sprouting, the ideal time to get them is when they are still germinating. Some weeds are incredibly resistant to herbicide, and they won’t react to pre-emergent or post-emergent herbicide applications. Like other plants, weeds and dandelions can adapt to their environment over time and survive adverse conditions. You’ll need to be very strategic with your elimination methods and use them at the right time. Dandelion development is a cyclical and straightforward process. This simplicity helps the weed proliferate without much fuss. Dandelion plants crop up multiple times in a season, as they move from seed to plant, and then blossom into a flower and produce a seed head. These seed heads rely on natural forces like wind and water to distribute them to other areas, where the cycle begins anew. Pro-Tip: Timing is an important aspect of effective weed elimination but, when it comes to dandelions, the visible portion of the weed hides the true source of dandelion proliferation. If you intend to get rid of dandelions permanently, you’ll need to go right to the source — an 18-inch taproot embedded deep in the soil, which gives the dandelion its perennial power. Image Source Many individuals think that the yellow, daisy-like flower of a dandelion is its final form. Instead, it’s the fluffy, spherical seed head that is the dandelion’s ultimate stage before take-off to a new location. Plan to use weed elimination methods during the yellow flower stage of a dandelion. You have a better chance of both killing it effectively and eliminating the seed head stage from spreading around other parts of your yard.

When To Begin the Removal Process

No matter how hearty weeds and dandelions prove to be, they each have their ideal growing conditions. Crabgrass, for example, likes patchy, brown lawns. Bull thistles like vacant lots and the edges where soil meets asphalt or concrete. Dandelions need wind and pollinators to spread. Broadleaf plantains like overwatered soil. Part of your weed prevention plan, then, should be to ensure you have the ideal grass seed growing conditions. Don’t overwater your lawn or allow dry, bare, and brown patches to take over without seeding. The best time to begin the removal process for any weed is right after heavy rainfall. You’re more likely to be able to eliminate both the plant and the taproot when the soil is moist, and it’s easy to dig in a hand shovel. If you spent the summer killing off the upper parts of a dandelion, use the early fall to use a post-emergent herbicide or another method to eliminate the taproot. During the winter, dandelion taproots live underground and wait for the spring to rise again. The taproots use the early fall to transfer nutrients from the dying leaves of a dandelion back down to the root for energy preservation. This is the right time to address taproots in your soil.

How To Get Rid Of Weeds and Dandelions

Planning and cultivating the perfect lawn takes precision and patience. The same is true of killing weeds and dandelions. If you use the early spring and summer to kill off the visible parts of the plant, you can use the fall to dig deep and get to the roots. Besides using herbicides, you can also opt for natural elimination methods with household items you may already have around your house. These include:

• Garden spades or pitchforks
• Gardening gloves
• Grass seed
• Dandelion pullers
• Salt and vinegar
• Large vessels or pots
• A pump sprayer
• Protective shoes

1) Use Horticultural Vinegar

This is an organic method for killing dandelions, and all you need is vinegar and water. Horticultural vinegar includes 20% acetic acid, and you can use this in place of a pre- or post-emergent herbicide. It’s also stronger than culinary vinegar, which only has about 5% acetic acid. Regardless of which type you’re using, make sure your application method doesn’t spread to other plants or affects your healthy lawn. Mix equal parts vinegar and boiling water in a pump sprayer. Use this to apply your homemade “herbicide” as it will direct the spray of solution, and you won’t risk damaging nearby grass.

2) Consider Hand-Digging

There’s a method of hand-digging that is smarter and easier than just tugging at the top of the dandelion plant. Immediately following a rainfall, put your gardening gloves on and get ready to pull. Use a small stool for sitting and working in sections.

• First, use a garden spade or shovel to create an incision in the soil. Wiggle the tool around the plant, almost as though you’re trying to wedge out a cake from a baking pan.
• Grip the leaves and work the spade further into the soil to create more leverage. Pry it up and then use a corkscrew turning motion to gently but steadily tug the weed out.
• The taproot, secure in the soil, will slowly yield and you can use the dandelion leaves to pull the whole weed out in this manner.

3) Use a Salt Solution

You can use a salt solution to kill off the truly turgid and stubborn dandelions and weeds. However, keep in mind that this effective method comes with an opportunity cost: You won’t be able to grow anything in that same location until the next season begins. Make sure to use this method only in areas such as:

• The cracks on your driveway
• Under a deck
• The edges between any landscaping stone and the lawn

To create your salt solution, mix one cup of salt with one cup of water. The salt will leech into the soil and kill off the dandelion as well as the taproot. This is an effective method if you don’t want to waste time hand-digging to get to the taproot.

4) Fill Holes With Pre-Emergent Herbicide and Soil

If you choose to hand-pull the dandelion, taproot and all, from the ground, you should have a plan for those fresh holes. Use some pre-emergent herbicide and fill these holes with soil. Corn gluten is a natural pre-emergent herbicide that works well. Depending on your timing during the season, you may also be able to fill former weed holes with soil and grass seed. For example, if you live in a cooler climate state, and you’re pulling weeds in the fall, plant cool season grass seeds in these holes for a lush lawn next year.

5) Pour Boiling Water Over the Plants

You may think that giving a weed water will just help it grow faster. However, boiling water sears through its stems and leaves, causing the plant to wilt, turn yellow, and then die. It’s a quick and effective way to eliminate their appearances, and boiling water can even affect sections of the underlying root. Without leaves, the dandelion can’t photosynthesize, and it will die off on its own. Image Source

Conclusion

Killing dandelions and weeds doesn’t have to be a time-consuming or taxing task. You need some strategy and pre-planning to eliminate these lawn offenders effectively. However, if you spend this season cleaning up your lawn, you can enjoy natural grass without weeds for years to come. At Nature’s Seed, we believe in helping you grow your own way. We’ve seen that preventative control is just as effective as elimination. You can also use premium quality grass seed to ensure that there are no patchy spots on your lawn. If weeds aren’t given conditions or a place to grow, then they won’t be a problem for you. Before using chemical solutions, consider a more natural, long-term solution to weed prevention. Contact Nature’s Seed to learn more.

During the Dust Bowl, the government searched for a solution to gain control of the dust storms as well as provide a solution to prevent another Dust Bowl. The solution they designed was to alleviate the plains of its bareness; to reverse the timeline. The Dust Bowl was created by the absence of native plants, nutrients and water. To reverse the timeline, they needed to introduce a grass similar to the native grasses that once grew in seas of green. This new breed of grass was a plant that could hold the topsoil in drought environments, called Crested Wheatgrass.

Because Crested Wheatgrass can flourish in dry, drought-like environments, as well as serves as a good grazing grass for livestock, the Crested Wheatgrass Solution came to be the best remedy for the suffering lands of the Great Plains.

This solution did have its downfalls though; this grass tends to grow in mass amounts and procreates easily, which enables the species to run out other grasses. This creates a “monoculture” (single species culture) and poor habitats for wildlife foraging for diverse species.

Other issues with this species have become more evident as the years have passed. Stay tuned for our next Dust Bowl Series blog: Environmental Impacts of the Dust Bowl 

Let’s get to growing,
Corryn

References:

Photograph number one: courtesy of Great Basin Seeds

Photograph number two: courtesy of US Fish and Wildlife Services

A topic we overlook frequently is the health of our soil. Although it may seem like once you plant your seed that nature is in control, we couldn’t be farther from the truth.

Different species of plants grow in different areas of our nation because of geography. Weather, altitude, soil type and the amount of nutrients in the soil are all reasons different plants grow better in different environments. Before we settled the Great Plains, for example, the land had its own ecosystem and regulated itself naturally, depending on the rain it got that year, how many animals ate the plants and how much of the plants were stomped into the ground and re-absorbed into the soil. In today’s age, we have houses, plants that aren’t native to the area, and basic human effect on the land. This changes the soil more than we think about. That is why we should pay attention to what kind of soil we have and what we need to do to take care of it.

In this post I am going to be outlining one of the greatest erosion disasters in our nation, explaining how it happened and what we did to fix it 

Back in the 1930’s, the Great Depression hit alongside of one of the largest man-made natural catastrophes in America’s history; the Dust Bowl. Lessons that farmers, scientists and everyday people learned from this chapter of our history textbooks is this: before nature gives us the fruits of our labor, we must ensure we give her something back.

A little overview of the Dust Bowl; how did it happen?

When the people of America who homesteaded (per the governments’ request) settled in the plains, they farmed little gardens to keep the family afloat. Decades later, their ancestors would plow-up their land to farm, fueled by rising wheat prices, a war in Europe and a couple good years of rain. They ran out the indigenous grasses and reaped the land of all of its nutrients by relentlessly farming. The farmers, not knowing the consequences, didn’t practice responsible farming techniques and robbed the soil of its nutrients. This caused the soil to not be able to grow anything well. Around the same time, drought struck the plains and added insult to injury; not only were the crops without nutrients in the soil, they were also without water. This caused the crops to fail over and over again. Without the indigenous grasses or any crops in place, the naturally high winds that haunted the plains picked up the loose, nutrient-drained soil and spread its dry dust across the plains. This created massive dust storms, which marked the Dust Bowl period. This type of erosion is called wind erosion.

The aftermath of the Dust Bowl consisted of every scientist and environmentalist desperately trying to find a way to prevent anything as disastrous as that to ever happen again.

Government agencies like the Soil Conservation Service (SCS)—now the Natural Resources Conservation Service—began to stress soil conservation measures. Alongside the SCS was the U.S. Forest Service, US Department of Agriculture, and later on, The National Drought Mitigation Center.

Scientists started researching the catastrophe and gave answers to many lingering questions. With answers came solutions. The greatest expansion in research on the Dust Bowl in recent years has come in the atmospheric sciences.

After the dust bowl, a solution to replant came to life: Crested Wheatgrass. The grass could hold the topsoil down because it grew well despite droughts. Companies ended up going out and replanting the plains as part of awareness.

The government purchased almost four million acres of land during the Dust Bowl. The land was restored as national grasslands, which prevented the soil from blowing so much.

Next week, I’ll be digging into the Crested Wheatgrass solution.

Let’s get to growing,
Corryn 

Before we talk about how wheat survives the winter, let’s discuss which wheats even need to survive the winter. Some wheats are planted in the spring and are harvested in the fall, which means they don’t weather the winter months. Winter wheat is planted in the fall and harvested in early summer. Here are two examples of wheat grown in the winter:

Hard Red Winter – Hard Red Winter wheat is the most popular variety of wheat in the United States. It accounts for around 40% of U.S. production. HRW has a high protein content and is a common ingredient in breads and all-purpose flour. Hard wheat generally has a higher gluten and protein content. 

Soft Red Winter – Soft Red Winter is the third largest wheat market in the U.S. It is a “soft” wheat because of its lower gluten content.

Hardiness of the seeds:

The winter wheat seeds are planted in the fall. They spend their first few months of life growing into little seedlings. They grow their stems and leaves, and then the crown, followed by a second root system. During this time the seedlings are storing energy and nutrients to bunker down for the winter. Generally, if the seedlings have 5-6 leaves grown, they will have enough nutrition to survive the winter. While the temperatures drop, the seedlings gradually get used to the cold. Depending on the species and if they have the genes to do so, the plants will start to produce an “anti-freeze” type substance to help them weather the winter.

The roots:

If the plants don’t develop good roots during the fall, they normally won’t be able to survive the winter. Take into consideration that just because the plant above the soil is growing tall, that doesn’t mean that the plant under the soil has deep roots. If their root system, their crown and the amount of plant above soil is good, they will tolerate the winter better.

Soil Temperature:

If the snow starts coming down early in the fall and significantly lowers the temperature of the soil, it could kill the wheat off prematurely. The more moisture the soil holds, the colder the plant can handle before damage occurs.

Disease and Insect Damage:

The plants could very well be killed off by insect or disease, even when the winter is at prime temperature and snow cover. Worms also can harm the crop. If you see any patches of crop missing or not growing, you may have a disease or insect issue. Also, pay attention to the leaves of the crop. This type of damage normally occurs in the warmer months.

Even if the plants survive winter, they could still die:

Symptoms will be more obvious when the weather warms up and plants start to grow rapidly (green up) in early spring. If the plants freeze during the winter, they won’t green up in the spring. However, if they suffer from damage of any kind they may still green up, but then won’t be able to grow due to the damage, and will slowly die as time goes on. The second death is more common than just freezing and dying.

Let’s get to growing,
Corryn

References:

Soft Red Winter Wheat. (n.d.). Retrieved March 30, 2018, from https://limagraincerealseeds.com/products/soft-red-winter-wheat

The Difference Between Hard & Soft Wheat. (n.d.). Retrieved March 28, 2018, from https://sciencing.com/difference-between-hard-soft-wheat-8166495.html

Photo by https://www.topcropmanager.com/seeding-planting/growing-winter-wheat-this-fall-20195