The best time to plant grass seed depends on several factors, including where you live. Even if you time everything perfectly, without a seed variety that grows well in your region, you probably won’t see the results you’re hoping for. Read more to find out the best time to plant grass seed in 11 major growth zones in the United States.

Best Time to Plant Grass Based on Type

Before you spend weeks planting and watering a new lawn, it’s important that you understand which type of grass seed you’re dealing with. Timing depends on whether you’re dealing with cool- or warm-season varieties. 

Cool Season Grass

As a general rule, cool-season grasses should be planted in the fall (when temperatures get cooler). These varieties perform well in colder climates. Examples of cool-season grasses include:

• Fescue
• Ryegrass
• Kentucky bluegrass 
• Bentgrass

Warm Season Grass 

Warm-season grass seed should be planted in the spring or late spring. You can remember this rule because spring means the weather is “warming up.” Warm-season grasses are popular in the south because they perform well in heat. Examples of warm-season grasses include:

• Bahia
• Bermudagrass
• Zoysia 
• Buffalograss

Best Time to Plant Grass Seed Based on Region 

If you’re wondering, “When is the best time to plant grass seed in the spring?” the answer still depends on the type of seed, and your growing zone. This list covers the best time to plant grass seed in 11 major growth zones in the United States.

1. Great Lakes/ New England

The best time to plant grass seed in the northeast is the fall because cool-season grasses can withstand harsh winters. In a typical year, you can start planting grass seed in New England and the Great Lakes region after Labor Day. 

September 3rd–September 15th is a good window because the ground should still be relatively warm, but not too hot. 

2. Midwest

The best time to plant grass seed in the midwest is also the fall, as temperatures can drop significantly in the winter. Generally, between the middle of August and the middle of September should work.

We recommend a window of August 20th–Labor Day, as long as it’s not an unusually hot summer.

3. South Atlantic 

The south Atlantic region of the US is a transitional region, meaning both cool- and warm-season grasses are common. 

• For warm-season grasses, you can usually plant grass seed in early spring, between March 15th–March 31st.

• For cool-season grasses, early fall is best. August 30th–September 15th.

4. Southern Subtropics

Warm-season grasses are typically more common in the southern subtropics. States like Louisiana, Alabama, and Georgia should plant in the spring. 

Planting around Memorial Day is usually a safe bet: May 25th–June 5th

5. Great Plains

The Great Plains is another region that commonly plants cool-season grasses like fescue and Kentucky bluegrass. 

Shoot for a window between August 15th–September 15th for best results. 

6. Southwest Steppe 

The best time to plant grass seed in the southwest steppe (areas like San Antonio and Odessa), is late spring. Warm-season grasses like Bermudagrass do well when the soil is warmed up. 

Memorial Day–June 10th is typically a good window. 

7. Intermountain West

The intermountain west region is expansive—covering northern Utah, all of Idaho and Montana, and eastern Washington and Oregon. Because these areas all typically experience freezing winters, cool-season grasses are common. 

Early fall, Labor Day–September 15th, is an ideal time to seed in these states.

8. Southwest Transitional 

Southern Utah, northern Arizona, and central Nevada are relatively warm throughout the year, but this area is still considered a transitional zone. 

For warm-season grasses, plant between April 1st–April 15th.

Cool-season grasses in this region can be planted throughout the year, avoiding the hottest months of May–August. February and October are both common months for planting cool-season grass here.

9. Southwest Desert

Though temperatures are warmer in this area, both warm- and cool-season grasses are common. 

In Las Vegas, Phoenix, and surrounding areas, plan to plant warm grasses around Memorial Day, and cool season grasses September 20th–October 10th.

10. Pacific Northwest

 In the Pacific Northwest, the best time to plant warm-season grass seed is before Memorial Day—May 1st–May 15th. The best time for cool-season grass is after Labor Day—September 5th–September 20th.

11. Pacific Southwest

Much of the Pacific Southwest experiences mild weather year-round, so several varieties of grass seed are popular. In California, early fall and late spring are great times to plant grass seed. 

For warm-season grasses, aim for May 20th–June 15th. For cool-season grasses, September 25th–October 15th.

Check out our SeedSelector Map for a full list of grass seed varieties by region.

Learn More About Grass Seed at Nature’s Seed

Once you’re familiar with the types of grass that grow best in your area, you can select the best time to plant grass seed for your region. 

Find high-quality grass seed varieties for every region at Nature’s Seed, and start growing a beautiful lawn today. 

How often to water grass seed depends on where you live, what time of year it is, and what type of grass seed you’re working with. 

For example, if you live in an area that receives a lot of precipitation and you’ve planted a seed that doesn’t need much sunlight, you will probably need to water your new grass seed less than the average grower. 

On the other hand, if you live in a dry climate and have planted grass seed that thrives in full sunlight, you will probably need to follow a strict watering schedule.

Either way, watering new grass seed is crucial for proper growth and germination. 

Here’s How Often to Water Grass Seed

Regardless of where you live, there are some hard and fast rules regarding how often to water grass seed. 

Before Planting 

The first thing to keep in mind is that you will need to water your plot of land before planting new grass seed. This ensures the soil is already moist when the seeds make contact—encouraging a successful planting. 

PRO TIP: While watering before planting is important, remember that waterlogged soil won’t allow new grass seed to grow. The goal is not to drown the land before planting: just water it enough for moisture to sink down a few inches. 

Immediately After Planting 

Once your grass seed is in the soil, be sure to water it right away. In most cases, you should water new grass seed for about 10–15 minutes, 3 times per day during the first week. Again, watering new grass seed is all about finding that sweet spot of soil moisture—don’t let the soil get overwatered and soggy, and don’t let it get dried out.

PRO TIP: Make sure the water pressure isn’t too high, or you risk washing seeds away. Apply the water as evenly as you can with a mist setting on your hose or a gentle oscillating portable sprinkler. Built-in impact sprinklers may be too rough on new seed. 

Before and After Germination

Continue watering your new grass seed consistently until you see germination (plants actually breaking through the soil to the surface). Once your grass has popped up, you should continue watering, but less frequently. 1–2 times per day for about 30 minutes is a good goal, adjusting for the weather.

PRO TIP: Cover new grass seed with peat moss or an alternative if you’re expecting heavy rainfall. This will help protect the seeds from washing away (and keep birds from feeding on the seed as well). 

After Continued Growth

If all goes well, your grass seed should continue to grow after germination. When you start to see consistent growth, you can decrease your watering to once per day, then every other day, for about 30 minutes each. A mature seeded lawn should be watered 2–3 times per week for 20–30 minutes.

PRO TIP: Don’t attempt to mow your newly seeded lawn (or walk on it) until the grass has reached a few inches in height. During the first few weeks, your sprouted grass will still be fragile. Soil should be damp, but undisturbed. 

Cool Season Grass vs. Warm Season Grass

So how often should you water new grass seed? The answer will vary greatly depending on the type of grass seed you plant. Most grass seed varieties can be classified into two categories: cool-season grass and warm-season grass. 

Cool Season

Cool-season grasses thrive in more moderate temperatures and include widely popular varieties like Kentucky Bluegrass and Fescue. These grass types tend to germinate faster than warm-season grasses, don’t need as much sunlight, and require less water initially. Because of the quick growth and shade tolerance, cool-season grasses are typically more readily available for sale. 

If you plant a lawn with cool-season grass seed, you will likely see results 1-2 weeks after you begin watering. This means you can adjust your watering schedule sooner, reducing the length and intervals.

Warm Season

Warm-season grasses are popular in areas that receive a lot of sunlight and include Bermudagrass and Zoysia. These grasses take longer to germinate and therefore require more watering initially when planted from seed. However, once warm-season grasses become established, they are extremely drought-resistant and durable. 

Warm-season grass seed can take 2–4 weeks to germinate and needs consistent water and sunlight. In fact, late spring is a good time to plant these varieties so they can benefit from hot summer weather. 

Effect of Climate on Watering New Grass Seed

Any lawn expert will tell you to pay close attention to the forecast before planting new grass seed, as the weather can have a big impact on your seeded lawn. Extreme temperatures and inclement weather will change your watering schedule.

Heat

First, pay attention to high temperatures. If you plant cool-season grass seed during a week of hot weather and direct sunlight, you will need to water several times throughout the day, every day. The hotter the temperature, the faster your soil dries up. Weather above 85 degrees Fahrenheit can make it very difficult for most grass seed varieties to grow successfully. 

Cold

On the other end of the spectrum, a cold snap can also derail your plans of growing grass from seed. Temperatures below 55 degrees make it almost impossible for even cool-season grasses to grow. However, if it’s cold outside, but not too cold, this can be good for your watering schedule. Cooler temperatures (above 55 degrees) mean the soil won’t dry up as quickly, so you can often adjust your watering to just 1–2 times per day.

Rain

Rain can either be a curse or a boon when it comes to watering new grass seed. Ideally, the forecast would call for a few days of gentle rainfall after planting—that way you would only need to manually water the lawn sparingly. But heavy rains, hail, and wind can damage and wash away seeds, so watch out for unexpected storms.  

What Time of Day is Best to Water New Grass Seeds?

Aside from determining how often to water grass seed, it’s also important to understand the best time of day to water. If you water new seeds at the wrong times, your efforts to keep the soil moist will be wasted. 

The ideal time to water new grass seed would be early in the morning, and late in the afternoon, as both of these windows give the soil time to absorb moisture without evaporation. However, with new seed, you’ll need to give the area a maintenance watering in between the morning and evening as well. Here’s an example of a schedule you might follow after planting cool-season grass seed in the fall:

Morning: First watering. 7:00 a.m. to 7:15 a.m.

Mid-Morning: Second watering. 9:30 a.m. to 9:45 a.m.

Late Afternoon: Third watering. 4:30 p.m. to 4:45 p.m.

When watering new grass seed, the main thing to remember is to avoid peak sunlight hours (between 10:00 a.m and 4:00 p.m.). If you turn your sprinklers on during the hottest or sunniest part of the day, the water will mostly evaporate before reaching the grass seed. 

Set your sprinkler system to run at specific times every day for at least the first week after planting (unless it happens to rain). If you don’t have programmable sprinklers, you can purchase a sprinkler timer to make this task more automated. 

How Long Does it Take for New Grass Seed to Grow?

New grass seed grows at different rates depending on the variety and the location. If you’ve planted at the right time of year, during favorable weather conditions, you can expect to see many grass seed types sprout within the week. After about 6 weeks the grass should be mostly filled in, measuring 2–4 inches in height. 

Warm-season grass seed can take longer to germinate. For example, Zoysia seed might not pop up for 14-21 days. These types of grass also take longer to fully establish. Many warm-season grasses tend to grow at full potential after 2–3 years.

Warning Signs to Watch Out For:

When figuring out how often to water grass seed, sometimes even the most diligent homeowners end up with growth problems. It’s important to watch for warning signs of over- or under-watering, and adjust your lawn care accordingly. 

Signs that you have over-watered:

Many people make the common mistake of overwatering new grass seed out of a fear of the soil drying up. Too much water not only stifles growth but also creates the potential for a host of other issues.

• Fungus

Have you noticed an abundance of mushrooms popping up in the yard? What about brown patches in the grass? These fungi can be a sign of overwatering. There are products you can use to target fungus growth. 

• Excess weeds

Too much moisture can also create weed problems and lead to your grass thinning out as well. Once the soil reaches a better moisture level, hand-pull as many weeds as you can. Applying weed-control products too soon to a newly seeded lawn can harm the growth of your grass. 

• Soggy soil

Probably the most obvious sign of overwatering is finding puddles in the yard, or feeling soggy soil. You may want to skip a day or two to allow things to get back to normal.

Signs that you have under-watered 

Underwatering is sometimes easier to spot, because often the grass just won’t grow, or dries out. There are a few other signs of underwatering to watch out for as well:

• Lingering footprints or lawnmower wheel prints

If you walk on your lawn or mow it and notice that your footprints and wheel prints are staying embedded in the grass, this is a telltale sign of underwatering. Without proper moisture, the grass won’t be nurtured enough to bounce back from impact.

• Slow growth

Another more subtle sign of underwatering is slow growth. If your new grass seed variety isn’t growing at the rate that it should, you might need to increase watering to 4 times per day, or increase the duration of each watering session.

• Dry soil

Sometimes the health of your soil can clue you into an underwatering problem before the grass does. If the soil around your planted grass seed looks and feels dry in between watering sessions, or first thing in the morning, it needs more moisture. 

Last Tips for Best Results

• Don’t abandon your lawn!

If you plan on leaving town, even for a day or two, make sure you have someone monitor the watering while you’re away. Newly planted grass seed is very vulnerable, and can suffer from a missed watering.

• Be patient

A lot of homeowners make the mistake of interfering with the growing process when they don’t see results right away. As long as you prepare your soil and are watering consistently, you should see germination within a few weeks. Give it time.

• Check soil pH levels

Sometimes over or under-watering grass seed can disturb the pH levels of your soil. Check pH levels after about 6 weeks, and apply products to correct an imbalance. Sulfur can be used to lower pH, while lime is a popular product for raising pH.

Learn More About Grass Seed at Nature’s Seed

So, how often should you water new grass seed? The answer depends on several factors (like seed variety and the climate you live in), but a good rule of thumb is to water new grass seed every day, 2–3 times per day. After a week or two you can reduce the frequency of your watering, while increasing the duration. 

At Nature’s Seed, we aim to sell only the best grass seed varieties and offer a 100% customer satisfaction guarantee. With high-quality grass seed from Nature’s Seed and a proper watering schedule, your new lawn will be thriving in no time. 

Plant cool-season lawns (Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, fescue) in the spring or fall when average high temperatures are in the 60-75 degree range. Warm-season lawns (bermudagrass, zoysia, buffalograss, bahia) should be planted in the late spring or early summer when average high temperatures are 80+ degrees.

Remove Preexisting Vegetation

This can be accomplished through physical removal (renting a sod cutter, tilling, etc.), chemical removal (glyphosate-based herbicide), or an alternative method (solarization, layering, etc.)

Prepare The Seedbed

Rake the area to remove dead plant matter, rocks, and other debris. Use a roller to firm up the soil if needed. You should not be leaving a footprint deeper than one inch.

Seed-To-Soil Contact

After spreading the seed, use a landscaping rake to light work the seed into the soil to a depth of ¼ to 1/8 inch deep. It’s normal for some seed to remain on the soil surface.

Apply A Topdressing or Mulch (Optional)

There are several products available to help your soil retain moisture during the germination period. Straw is a popular choice, but make sure it comes from a weed-free source

Constant Moisture

Keep the area constantly moist during the germination period. Soil should remain damp, but not soaked for 15-30 days after planting.

1) Rake or Dethatch Your Yard

a. Before your first mow of the new year, rake your yard thoroughly to release matted grass clumps caused by snow mold, which can smother new growth. A spring-tine rake is recommended for this project. This will help alleviate thatch*

b. Be sure not to rake when soil is muddy or soft, which makes it more likely to pull up healthy grass crowns.

c. Clean up any twigs, branches, trash, and other debris.

d. Rake out dead grass patches.

2) Aerate Soil

a. One way to reduce thatch and the effect of compacted soil is to use a core aerator, which removes plugs of soil to allow for more air, water, and nutrients to reach grassroots.

b. Cool Season: Aerate in early spring or fall

c. Warm Season: Aerate from late spring to summer

d. Clay Soils/High Traffic Areas: Aerate once per year

e. Core aeration should be done every 2-3 years

TIP: If you have an issue with weeds and are using a pre-emergent herbicide, skip aeration in the spring.

3) Kick Weeds to the Curb

a. In the Northern U.S. apply a pre-emergent herbicide to help prevent weeds.

b. In the Southern U.S. use a pre-emergent herbicide to help prevent weeds, or hand-pull/apply a post-emergent to tackle weeds that have popped through.

4) Fertilize Grass

a. Apply fertilizer about 3 weeks after the grass starts to green, or following the first 2-3 mowings. If you apply too early, you run the risk of feeding weeds and creating fertilizer runoff.

b. Water your lawn a few days before applying fertilizer to avoid burning your grassroots. Follow directions to avoid over-fertilizing.

c. Use a seed spreader to ensure you apply the right amount of fertilizer and distribute it evenly across your grass.

5) Seed and Lime as Needed

a. Reseed in areas where there are bare spots or patchiness.

b. Apply a slow-release fertilizer at this time to help with new germination.

c. Early spring and fall are most ideal times for reseeding.

d. Spring is a great time to test your yard’s pH to determine if your soil is too acidic. Most grasses prefer soil that is between 5.8-7.2 pH. When soil is too acidic, you may see signs of weeds, disease, pests, and moss.

e. Soil pH changes over time, so testing annually will help keep you on top of your soil pH levels. Once your pH is balanced, you can test every 3 or so years.

f. If you need to add lime, only do so if absolutely necessary. Spring and fall are the best times to add lime. Your soil test results will let you know how much to apply to reach your pH goals.

TIP: If you can wait until fall for seeding, do so. Spring seeding requires extra weeding, watering, and attention throughout the summer.

6) Water!

a. Generally speaking, your lawn needs about 1 inch of water per week. This can come from irrigation or rain.

b. During spring or summer, water early in the morning or late at night, to avoid evaporation.

c. Water less frequently, and more deeply. This will reduce water usage and encourage your grass to grow a deep root system.

TIP: Is it time to water? Step on your lawn. If the blades bounce back slowly or are wilted, curled, or dull in color, it may be time to water.

7) Mowing and Lawn Care Tips

a. Inspecting your lawn mower in the spring is a great habit to get into. This is the time to perform maintenance, change your oil, change spark plugs, sharpen blades, etc.

b. Set your mower to remove only the top 1/3 of your grass blades and avoid mowing too close to the ground. Grass cut too low will allow sunlight to reach the soil and encourage weed growth.

TIP: If it’s your first mow of the season, set your mower in the sun for an hour or so before starting up. This will help warm it up for an easier start.

c. Mow in the early evening when temperatures are cooling down and remember not to mow when your lawn is wet.

d. Change directions each time you mow. This will prevent ruts from forming and keep your grass blades even.

e. Mowing should be down as needed. Your lawn may need to be mowed more often in the spring and early summer, than at the end of the growing season.

TIP: REMOVE spark plugs before performing maintenance on your lawn mower.

8) Dispose of Lawn Clippings as Needed

You CAN leave your grass clippings behind. It can help add nutrients back into your soil, create a home for pollinators and wildlife, and help your soil retain more moisture. However, if it starts to create a thick thatch layer – it’s time to go! Remove your clippings and add them to your compost pile – if you don’t use chemicals on your lawn.

Questions:

What is thatch?

Thatch is a layer of leaves, roots, and dead grass that builds up between soil and live grass. It can keep air and water from reaching your roots if it becomes too thick (1/2 inch or more). A thin layer can be beneficial in protecting your soil by retaining moisture and nutrients.

The three numbers on a bag of fertilizer – for example, 4-6-4 – represent the ratio (by percentage) of each nutrient. They are always in order as NPK. In the case of 4-6-4, the percentage is 4% Nitrogen, 6% Phosphorus, and 4% Potassium. In total, this equates to 14% (4% + 6% + 4%) of nutrients contained in this fertilizer and 86% of minor nutrients.

Conclusively, plants need around 16 nutrients to remain healthy, such as calcium, iron, and chlorine. Some nutrients are also passed on to soil and plants via air and water.

Nitrogen

Nitrogen is the first part of NPK. It plays a key role in plant coloring and chlorophyll production – making it an important factor in leaf development. High-nitrogen fertilizers are used for grass and plants where green foliage is more crucial than flowering.

How do I know if I might have a Nitrogen deficiency?
When grass or other plants are yellowing (starting with the youngest leaves), this can be a sign of nitrogen deficiency. However, it can also be a sign of too much Nitrogen. A soil test is crucial when you are at a crossroads.

Phosphorus

Phosphorus is the second part of NPK. It plays a key role in root development, seed formation, blooming, and fruiting. It’s essential for plants, particularly in the spring.

How do I know if I might have a Phosphorus deficiency?
If leaf or blade tips are brown and dying, this could indicate a Phosphorus deficiency.

Potassium

Potassium is the third and final part of NPK. It plays a key role in the overall vigor, health, and growth of plants. It strengthens a plant’s ability to resist disease and pests and strengthens a plant’s ability to absorb water and nutrients. Potassium is particularly important in climates that are cold and/or dry.

How do I know if I might have a Potassium deficiency?
If leaf margins on older leaves turn bright yellow and look scorched, or you find brown speckles covering your leaves or blades, you may have a Potassium deficiency.

Understanding what your lawn needs and knowing how to take care of it is a major key in your property’s health—and can, unfortunately, be a challenge for beginners. Lawn grasses demand consistent care for a healthy and uniform look. That’s why it’s essential for any new or experienced homeowner to refresh their lawn care know-how.

This guide will tell you everything about the basics of lawn care. You’ll get the ins and outs of important lawn care steps that involve mowing, watering, nutrients, weeds, and aeration—plus plenty of information on the types of turfgrass blends that will thrive in your region.  

Where to Start: Lawn Care Tips & Basics

Whether you’ve just bought a new home with a new lawn or are looking to beautify your existing property, knowing lawn care basics is an essential part of the process of obtaining a beautiful property. 

This part of the guide will talk about lawn care’s most critical aspects—like mowing, watering, nutrients, weeds, and aeration—while also answering essential questions about specific methods and issues along the way. 

Tip #1: Mow Your Lawn Frequently—No Matter the Season

Mowing your lawn may feel like a tedious chore, but it’s an essential one that you should do no matter the season. When it comes to lawn care tips, mowing your lawn has numerous benefits, with the most important one being that it keeps your grass healthy.   

Proper mowing can increase your grass’s density and promote more profound root growth, which can lead to a stronger turf. Over time, you’ll have healthy grass blades that can survive better against invasive weeds and pests that sneak onto your property. 

How Much Should I Mow My Lawn?

Although how much you should mow depends on the speed of the lawn’s growth, don’t clip off more than ⅓ of the blade with your mower. One of the most common mistakes is cutting your grass too short. 

Doing this could interrupt the natural process of photosynthesis on your lawn, which is the crucial process that is responsible for converting the sunlight into energy. 

You should mow your lawn according to your seed blend’s recommendations. However, a good rule of thumb for timing is to cut once a week during the growing season and then every other week during off-seasons. 

So, for example, mow cool-season grasses frequently during the spring and fall because that’s when seeds germinate quickly. Then, you should mow only every couple of weeks in the summer when the growth has slowed down. This is because cool-season grasses go dormant in the winter, so they don’t require mowing attention at that time.

Tip #2: Watering

Like all living things, your lawn needs water. However, depending on the variety, your property may require less—or more—water than other blends. You should become familiar with your lawn’s water intake because giving it too much water is just as bad as offering too little. 

You can water your lawn with a hose, a manual sprinkler, or by installing an irrigation system. It’s a good idea to water somewhere between two and three times a week when it hasn’t rained. If it does rain, be sure to let your lawn dry out before you water it again. 

Generally, lawns need to be watered early in the morning between five and nine a.m. and somewhere between 1 to 1 ½ inches of water per week. The key is to ensure that the top 6 to 8 inches of soil are soaked, although this may vary depending on your soil type and your lawn’s health. 

Should I Install a Water Irrigation System?

There are pros and cons when it comes to inground irrigation systems for young grass shoots. Here are some factors that many homeowners like about irrigation systems: 

• It saves time. Having an irrigation system saves you manually doing this chore and will take care of your property for you in an automated way. 
• It goes by a schedule. A properly scheduled irrigation system can help guarantee your lawn’s health by watering the turf with the exact amount needed, at a timing interval you choose

Of course, there are some disadvantages too, with cost being a significant issue on the list.  

• It’s expensive. Even though they’re resources, lawn irrigation systems are an investment. means There’s an upfront cost you have to consider. 
• It requires maintenance. Sprinkler heads usually have to undergo repairs or maintenance at some point, especially if you mow frequently and accidentally damage one. These systems typically require some maintenance to prevent damage from freezing or any potential leaks. (This is why irrigation systems are more common in southern lawns.)

Tip #3: Nutrients and Soil pH

Nutrients play a significant role in your lawn’s overall health, and you can usually obtain the right amount of nutrients for grass roots through fertilizing. Using the right fertilizer can amplify your lawn’s color, increase its productivity, heighten its ability to recover from stress, balance soil pH, and help fight against weeds, diseases, and pests. 

Your lawn needs essential nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. When you buy fertilizer, you might notice something called N-P-K ratios, which refer to:  

• Nitrogen (N): Nitrogen is responsible for the chlorophyll (green coloring) of your lawn, promoting growth and lush yet strong blades. 
• Phosphorus (P): Phosphorus helps promote strong root growth, which is essential for establishing lawns. Phosphorus allows your grass to grow more efficiently and more vital than ever so that it can combat weeds. 
• Potassium (K): Potassium helps maintain the cells’ health in your grass, which can help increase its drought-tolerance, cold-hardiness, and disease-resistance. 

Unfortunately, you can’t see what your lawn’s nutrient levels are without a soil test, but the good news is that conducting a soil test is easy. You can buy a soil test kit from a home and gardening store or get it tested at a soil testing lab, like your local Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) office. 

After you get your results, you can get quality fertilizer based on what your lawn needs. For example, if it has a potassium deficiency, then you can get a fertilizer that helps boost those levels. 

Tip #4: Weeds

Weeds are a plant’s worst nightmare—and, unfortunately, they’re prevalent in lawns across the country. Weed seeds are invasive and grow anywhere where there’s room. Some weeds, like dandelions, are particularly meddlesome, taking over the resources for other plants, because they can spread thousands of their seeds on the wind.

The most common and invasive type of weed in the US is broadleaf weed. While problematic, they’re easy to spot on your lawn because they won’t match your turfgrass at all and the flowering types don’t look like garden flowers. 

Instead, these plants have broad leaves and a kind of fuzzy flower head, depending on the type. Some common species are chickweed, dandelion, and thistle.

You can prevent weeds from taking over your lawn using pre-emergent herbicides. However, if you already have weeds, then this solution won’t do much. Instead, you’ll need herbicides designed for post-emergence, which is a standard method used for weed control in your yard. 

I Don’t Want To Use Herbicide. Is Pulling Weeds Effective? 

Pulling weeds in your yard can be effective whether they’re surface-level, creeping, or deep-rooted. This can be a chemical-free way of combating weeds on your property, especially if they’re only in a concentrated area and haven’t yet spread throughout your lawn. 

When you do pull weeds, be sure that you grab at the weed base and pull it out so that all of its roots come out with it. If you leave any root in the ground, then there’s a chance it can still spread. 

In incredibly challenging circumstances, it might be time to opt for herbicides. Although some property owners are wary of using chemicals on their property, it is still quite an effective option when gaining your lawn’s health back.

Can Herbicides Kill My Lawn? 

Herbicides can kill your lawn if you’re using the wrong kind. The key is to use the right herbicide for your grass.  If you buy non-selective herbicide, then you could harm your entire property by mistake. 

So when shopping for herbicides, be sure to purchase selective herbicides. A selective herbicide is manufactured to combat specific weeds species while leaving other species (like your turfgrass) unharmed.

Tip #5: Aeration

Aeration is a necessary task when your soil is too compacted for your grassroots. Compacted soil can inhibit the flow of the water and nutrients to reach your grass, supporting your lawn’s growth and overall health. 

Aeration is a method that helps break up the soil so that your roots can breathe better. It does so by creating holes in the ground that can alleviate the compaction, allowing water and nutrients to reach the roots. Performing consistent aeration can also help with eliminating thatch and the chances of root rot, since your grass seeds will be able to breathe.

How Do I Know My Lawn Needs Aeration?

There are numerous ways to tell if your lawn needs to be aerated: 

• Your soil is hard and it’s difficult to dig with a shovel
• Your lawn grass is growing poorly or thinning
• There are several patches or worn areas in the yard
• Numerous puddles appear and don’t dissolve 

These are all apparent signs of compacted soil, which means that your lawn is desperate for aeration and some dethatching.

When Should I Aerate My Lawn?

If you plan to plant grass seed, then you should aerate your lawn so that the soil is loosened and ready to germinate. However, you have to be sure that you aerate at the proper times.

For example, you should never aerate dormant lawns. Be sure to focus on aeration when your grass is prepared to reach its peak time for natural growth. Plan to aerate cool-season lawns in the early fall or early spring. For warm-season grasses, late spring or early summer is the best time for aeration. 

How Do I Aerate My Lawn? 

You can hire professionals to aerate your lawn and eliminate the thatch layer, but it’s also a good idea to have a general idea of how aeration works so that you know how to do it yourself. There are two main ways to aerate: 

• Spike aerators, which poke holes into the ground with a fork-shaped blade. 
• Plug aerators, designed to remove a plug of grass and soil from the lawn. 

Before you get started, make sure that your soil is slightly moist. You want to wait a day if it’s rained since the ground is likely puddled or soaking a few inches deep. When it’s damp, go over the affected areas with your aeration machine. 

You’ll probably have to go over the same spots a few times since compacted soil can be stubborn to break through. After you’ve aerated your lawn, be sure to follow lawn care basics habits like mowing, watering, and fertilizing for optimal maintenance. 

When It’s Time to Reseed Your Lawn

Reseeding your lawn might seem like a daunting and unnecessary task, especially if you already have an established blend on your property. However, it’s sometimes necessary —especially if your lawn looks like it needs that extra help. 

When this happens, it could indicate that the current blend of seed isn’t doing well in the existing soil or climate conditions. 

The good news is that reseeding can often fix this problem. Before you purchase a bag of seeds, be sure that you know the type you should look for. You can start by finding out what species will do well in your zone with the Seed Selector tool.

Warm-Season Grasses

Also known as “southern grasses,” warm-season grasses are grass species that grow best in hot weather like the southern United States. Depending on the type, some do better along the coast in subtropical regions like Florida, while others prefer more arid climates like the Southwest. 

Warm-season grasses don’t have the same winter hardiness as cool-season grasses do, which means that they go dormant when the temperature drops too low. In some regions, warm-season grasses don’t go dormant at all and can remain green year-round. 

When it comes to selecting a warm-season grass for your southern lawn, you have quite a selection to choose from. To keep things simple, you can start by learning about the most common blends: bahiagrass, bermudagrass, buffalograss, and zoysiagrass. 

Bahiagrass

Bahiagrass is the perfect blend for those whose lawns have poor soil, and other combinations haven’t worked. Bahiagrass offers a lime-green coloring with minimal water requirements, making it ideal for beautifying any dryland property. It grows slowly but does remarkably well for those who want a low-maintenance lawn with high curb appeal. 

Bermudagrass

Bermudagrass is a versatile blend with minimal water requirements, meaning it’s perfect for hot, sunny lawns along the south. Its coarse texture and bright-green coloring offer extra beautification for high-traffic lawns and sports fields. This blend can survive in scorching summer conditions and is also famously pest- and drought-resistant. 

Buffalograss

Buffalograss is a slow-establishing blend that thrives in the entirety of the southern regions and the transitional zones. It has a soft-to-the-touch texture and vibrant-green coloring, making it perfect for beautifying front lawns that require a drought-tolerant blend.. 

Zoysia Grass

Zoysia grass is an excellent blend for those with full-sun lawns. It has a deep emerald color with minor water requirements, which means that it thrives during the hot summer months. Thanks to its deep roots, it can easily access water in the soil to stay healthy even during drought seasons. Zoysia is ideal for busy lawns with children and pets. 

Cool-Season Grasses

Also called “northern grasses,” cool-season grasses are versatile and durable blends that are hardy enough to cold-weather climates like the northern half of the United States. They can withstand the cool and freezing temperatures of the winter, where they grow quickly during the fall and spring, slow down during the summer, and go dormant in the winter when the soil freezes. 

In areas where winters are not as cold, like the transitional zones, cool-season grasses stay green all winter. However, in many parts of the country where it does get to freezing temperatures, cool-season grasses will withstand the fluctuation and simply go dormant so that it’s ready to come back in the spring. 

If you live in the transitional zones, the Midwest, or the Northeast, then you probably need a cool-season blend for your lawn. To start, you should consider some of the most easy-going and popular combinations, which are Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and fescue grass. 

Kentucky Bluegrass

Kentucky bluegrass is perfect for properties that need that extra support. With a rich, deep forest-green coloring, Kentucky bluegrass thrives with extra cold hardiness, which means that it can offer year-round beautification and durability on high-traffic lawns or sports fields. 

Perennial Ryegrass

Perennial ryegrass is a perennial grass that germinates quickly. Perennial ryegrass is often blended with other species to help “nurse” slower-establishing species as it combats against weeds, erosion, and poor soil conditions. Its bright shamrock-green coloring catches the eye and also does well to beautify high-traffic lawns or sports fields. 

Fescue Grass

Fescue grasses are versatile and come in several different blends, like fine fescue, tall fescue, creeping red fescue, sheep fescue, and much more. This shade-tolerant and erosion-control blend requires minimal water and is often used to beautify lawns that have been neglected or died out. It is also suitable for those who want a low-maintenance, low-water-use landscape. 

Lawn Alternative: White Dutch Clover

White dutch clover is a popular lawn alternative that many homeowners opt for instead of actual grasses. It can grow anywhere within the continental U.S. and can tolerate full sun as well as full shade, which means it’s versatile for just about any lawn. People love white dutch clover as a lawn alternative because of its many benefits, such as: 

• It requires little watering. Its roots are longer than traditional grasses, which means that finding water deep in the soil is no problem. 
• It stays green longer. In southern climates, white dutch clover can stay green all year, but it also remains greens in the north from early spring to wintertime. 
• It outcompetes weeds. Clover has the strength to outcompete weeds, which means that you don’t have to use herbicides to keep them at bay. 
• It grows in poor soil. Perhaps the best part about white dutch clover is that it can adapt to any type of soil, even poor-draining, and low-quality soils. 
• It doesn’t require aeration. Since clover can tolerate compacted soil better than regular grass blends, you don’t need to aerate your lawn if you decide to seed clover. 

Conclusion

Keeping your lawn healthy is just as challenging as establishing one—but once you’ve got the basics down and take the time to understand what your lawn needs, you’re well on your way to a healthy and established property.

Just remember these key lawn care tips to guarantee a happy and healthy property: 

• Your lawn needs to be mowed every week during its growing season and less often when it’s slowing down. 
• Your lawn needs to be watered at least an inch twice a week. 
• Nutrients are essential to your lawn’s health, and you can find out what fertilizer your property requires by conducting a soil test. 
• Weeds are hard to avoid but not impossible to eliminate. Opt for selective herbicide or pull the weeds with their roots by yourself. 
• Aeration should be done every growing season, especially if your property has compacted soil. 

It’s also vital that you get the right turf or grass seeds for your region. Determine whether or not you are in a cool-season, warm-season, or transitional zone with the Seed Selector tool so that you can choose a turf products blend based on your preferences and needs. 

Nature’s Seed Can Help You Choose the Right Blend

If you ever feel overwhelmed or need some extra guidance on these lawn care basics, then you can always consult with the professionals. The experts at Nature’s Seed have got your back when it comes to lawn care and can help you find the perfect seed for your property.

Instead of going out every time you want to work on your golf game, consider building a putting green in your backyard.

Aside from helping you practice your putting stroke, a backyard green can add value to your property. It’s also an excellent outdoor feature for entertaining — invite your golf-loving friends over and you can all practice together.

If you’re interested in building a backyard putting green, there are a few things you’ll want to know before starting. This guide will help you determine what factors to consider, the cost of installing your putting green turf, all the materials you’ll need, and the actual steps in creating a DIY putting green in your yard.

What Is a Putting Green?

A putting green is a place for golfers to practice and improve their game. If you have one in your yard, you can use it yourself, and you can invite friends over for some friendly competition.

When you install a backyard putting green, you’ll have an opportunity to improve your golf skills and relax on your schedule. You can also use a DIY putting green for lawn games, when hosting parties, or simply to enjoy some fresh air on the weekend with friends and family.

At the same time, a putting green increases your backyard’s aesthetic appeal and makes your outdoor living space more inviting.

How to Make a Putting Green in Your Yard: Four Considerations 

Building backyard putting greens does require careful planning. Here’s what you need to determine before getting started:

1. The Size of Your Backyard Putting Green

The size of your green will depend on the space you have and how much time you want to dedicate to your project. A residential putting green typically ranges between 600-1,800 square feet with a sand trap.

If your lawn is too small for that project, you can still make a putting green using the space you have. However, aim for at least 100-200 square feet of space with good soil drainage.

2. Type of Grass to Use

San Diego Bentgrass (agrostis pallens) is a cool-season grass that can be used as a quality putting green. The finely textured blades provide minimal resistance and allow balls to roll freely, making this variety ideal for avid putters looking to play with ease.

However, if you live in the south, choose bermudagrass. It’s a type of drought-resistant turfgrass that looks sharp on your putting green in the summer months. 

The upright leaves allow for better golf ball movement. To maintain this shape, you can cut across the tips with scissors or shears. However, there is one downside to this variety that you’ll have to accomodate: bermudagrass lawns tend not to be as fast-growing as other types, such as bentgrasses.

3. Lawn Care and Maintenance

Proper care of your putting green is necessary to make it appear like the actual green turf areas in a golf course.

You need to mow natural grass regularly once it is well established. Regular fertilization, irrigation, and topdressing every year will also help keep everything in optimal shape.

Of course, maintaining the ideal grass height for putting greens goes beyond ensuring that it isn’t short enough to be exposed to the elements. The right grass height affects how well a ball lies in the grass, the carry distance, and even backspin. For example, a ball exposed by 80% on a putting green would have a reduced carry distance of 1.8 yards. A ball exposed by 60% would significantly reduce carry distance by 4.1 yards. So the height you mow it should always allow for 100% ball exposure.

Aerating the grass annually is another easy and effective way to keep it healthy. Plan to use reciprocating aerifiers to make your task much easier.

4. Putting Green Cost

The cost depends on the area you have allotted for your putting green and the turfgrass you’ll be using.

If you’re using natural grass on your putting green, all you need to pay for are the materials and any manpower if you’re hiring a landscaper to help you. If it’s a DIY job, you’ll be able to save money since you won’t be hiring a professional to help you plan and build the putting green from scratch.

A synthetic putting green can cost several thousand dollars since you’ll need to pay for the artificial turf.

Natural vs. Synthetic Grass

There are different natural grasses you can plant when you install your home practice area. However, artificial grass is another option you can consider when figuring out how to make a putting green in your yard. Both have their respective pros and cons.

An advantage of real grass is it’s the most attractive choice. You’ll feel like you’re playing on your favorite golf course. However, you need to water the grass regularly, as well as treat it with fertilizer and weed control techniques to maintain its quality.

On the other hand, synthetic turf is made from polyurethane and nylon, so you won’t need to add water or fertilizer. However, you will have to clean the fibers once a month to remove dirt and debris. You can also purchase natural grass turf, which will still require watering and mowing to keep it looking fresh. 

One thing to keep in mind with artificial turf is that it is more expensive to install than natural grass. According to HomeAdvisor, the cost of artificial turf backyard putting green ranges from $1,800 up to $9,000.

Installing a modest-sized, 200-square foot putting green will cost around $4,300 for most homeowners. Larger artificial greens (500 square feet or more) can run as high as about $9,000. 

Factor in all these variables into your decision when determining whether to go with natural or synthetic grass for your putting green.

Materials You Need to Build a Putting Green

Aside from the common tools like a shovel, wheelbarrow, and garden hose, you will need additional materials to successfully build a putting green in your yard. Home improvement stores and landscaping companies might let you rent some of these tools, so you don’t necessarily have to buy them.

#1: Sod Cutter

Once you determine the best area in your yard for installing the putting green, you must remove the old turf. To do this, you’ll need a sod cutter.

The most basic kind of sod cutter looks like a shovel but with a squared edge at the end. To use it, drive the edge cutter into the soil. If it is too tough, stomp on the cutter to break up the earth. Repeat this process until you’ve outlined the area you want to remove. Then shovel out the dirt. 

The reality is, manual installation requires a lot of manpower. To make removing old turf much easier, consider using a gas-powered sod cutter.

To use a gas-powered model, you simply guide the tool to do the cutting for you around your grid. This type of sod cutter also makes cleaner cuts and a nicer finish for your putting green.

#2: Plate Compactor

After removing the sod, you need to achieve proper compaction on the sub-base of your lawn. A sub-base is a layer of crushed limestone made of Granite Dust (20-30mm) and Type 1/MOT (50-70mm).

Once compacted, the sub-base will serve as a dense and solid foundation for your putting green. And thanks to the stone material, water can seep in and pass through the base down to the ground. It won’t settle on the green.

You can use a hand tamper to compact the base. However, manual compacting only works if you have several people helping you level the base properly. If not, it’s best to use a gas-powered plate compactor. You will get the job done in a few hours or less, depending on the size and area of the sub-base.

However, for bends and curves in your putting green, you will have to do the work manually.

#3: Golf Course Sand (Optional)

You may want to place a bunker beside the putting green to help you work on your wedge game. If so, you need to buy golf course sand for part of your green.

Keep in mind that maintaining the sand does involve extra work. To keep it clean, you’ll want to regularly separate the sand from the gathered debris using a sifter. To prolong the life of beach sand and eliminate fungus and bacteria, you need to rinse it with tap water. After draining the water, sterilize it by warming it in the oven for 45 minutes at 300°F or less. 

Steps for Making a Putting Green in Your Yard

Once you have all the tools, materials, and a helper or two to guide you through the project, it’s time to start building your backyard putting green. Follow these steps for smooth rolling greens right on your property:

Step # 1: Prepare the Ground

Take a string or garden hose and form the shape of the putting green to your liking. Then, mark the outline of the shape using spray paint before removing the string or hose.

Next, remove old sod using your gas-powered cutter. You may also need to eliminate other debris like rocks, tree stumps, or roots within the marked area.

Once your ground is exposed, level it down using a plate compactor. Once compacted, roll out the weed barrier on top of the sub-base layer. The barrier will act as a stabilization cloth that will prevent the crushed stone of your sub-base from sinking into the ground.

To ensure that your sub-base stays within the marked area, use a block border or retaining wall. Or, add an edging along the entire outside perimeter to define where your stones will go.

Step # 2: Build Strong Footing

Pour the sub-base material into the area using a shovel and distribute it evenly using the flat side of a rake. 

Make sure to set up a proper drainage system for your putting green. Letting the water pass through the green will deteriorate the sub-base material and damage your green. Therefore, make sure to have a slight slope to the sub-base, ideally a one-inch drop for every 12 feet. This way, excess water will flow down the top of the green. 

After leveling the crushed stone, wet the sub-base lightly before compacting it properly several times. Not compacting it will cause irregularities on the surface of your putting green and will affect how your ball will roll. 

If you notice low spots on your sub-base, you must fill that area with additional crushed stone to level it. For small bumps, even them out using your shovel.

To determine if your sub-base has been compacted correctly, take a putt and see how the ball rolls. If the ball rolls too fast or is hindered by bumps, add more crushed stone and re-compact the base again until you achieve the desired effect on your base.

From here, you can install your regulation cups. Determine where you will permanently place the cup on the sub-base. Then twist the cup while applying force to it into the base.

Step # 3: Plant Your Grass Seeds

If you want to plant grass seeds, San Diego Bentgrass or bermudagrass are the most popular options for DIY putting greens.

Unless you have experience planting grass seeds, you may want professional help when figuring out how much seed you need to plant and the kind of soil to use. Give us a call, and we’ll be more than happy to assist you regarding this. 

If you’re using synthetic grass, roll the turfgrass out to cover the base. Assuming you’re using multiple rolls of grass, you want to stitch them together first before cutting them to match the shape of your putting green.

But first, join them together using a specialized turf joining tape. Then use turf pegs to firmly attach the turf rolls. It will also keep the grass firmly attached to the base for much longer, even during constant exposure to the rain and sun.

Next, cut the grass to match the outline of your putting green using a utility knife.

Step # 4: Create the Sand Bunker

Feel free to skip this step if you don’t need a sand bunker for your putting green. But if you do, dig a hole where you want the bunker to be and pour the golf course sand you purchased into it.

Step # 5: Add Plants on the Side

At this point, your putting green is ready for use. But you want your green to look like a natural part of your lawn.

To achieve this, you can surround the putting green with ornamental plants. You don’t need plants that require constant pruning and shaping. Simply choose ones that will work with your climate. Also, make sure that the plants you choose won’t grow over your putting green.  

Evergreen shrubs are low-maintenance plants that will look perfect next to your putting green. They’re taller and more attractive than most plants. And unlike trees, you won’t have to worry about leaves or seed pods dropping onto the green. A popular evergreen is a boxwood — it lends color all year long and only needs pruning once per year to look attractive.

Also, consider planting drought-resistance and hardy grasses. Ornamental grasses like Blue Grama and Bottlebrush Squirreltail can grow very tall, which helps them stand out on your lawn in a good way. Another type of shortgrass that will look appealing near your putting green is golden Hakone, which offers a textured look.

Have fun making the surrounding landscape look just the way you want it to, so you end up with the ultimate putting green in your yard.

Conclusion

Building a putting green is a time-consuming project that’ll only take longer to finish if you don’t do it correctly. These tips should help cover all the bases so you can create a putting green that you feel proud of.

As part of your lawn, you’ll want to choose the best plants and grass seeds to achieve the right aesthetic. This is your backyard, after all, a space where you’ll be spending a lot of time relaxing or entertaining guests.

To end up with a professional finished look, contact Nature’s Seed for suggestions and advice. You’ll be able to achieve incredible results when you start with high-quality seeds for your lawn.

For Nature’s Seed, microclover seeds are one of our most popular products. While we provide pasture, wildflower, and lawn grass seed, we also want to help our customers create vibrant landscapes that are uniquely their own. Hence our stock includes perennial clover plants like verdant microclover. Browse our immense selection of seeds and find the right mix for your future lawn, garden, or pasture.

Below, we discuss what microclover is and what makes it different, as well as its benefits and drawbacks for your lawn, how to introduce it to your lawn, and how to best maintain it for a healthy, well-managed lawn.

What is Microclover?

Microclover is a popular type of tiny white clover that was developed to have smaller leaves, fewer flowers, and reduced habit of growth compared to regular clover plants. More specifically, microclover is known as Trifolium repens var. Pirouette.

Because of its smaller size and less dense appearance on lawns, more home and property owners are looking into planting microclover as part of their lawns or pastures. Planting micro clover in one’s lawn offers a number of additional benefits, adding to the already well-desired reasons to include them, as well as other types of Dutch white clover in your lawn mix.

Find High-Quality Dutch White Clover Seed from Nature’s Seed

Benefits of Adding Micro Clover to Your Lawn

To determine whether microclover plants are a great choice for one’s lawn, it’s important to find out what advantages are driving its recent recognition and popularity among landscapers and gardeners. Here are some benefits that micro clover may provide your landscape:

Microclover is More Drought Tolerant Than Turf

Among the biggest reasons landscapers and gardeners regard microclover so highly is because it has better drought tolerant properties than turf grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass. This is because micro clover seeds establish root systems deeper than conventional turf grass, which means they require less water than grass. These attributes make microclover a resilient choice for lawns and pastures. Despite this, it still needs to be routinely watered, requiring extra water during the hot summer months. 

Micro Clover Creates a Self-Sustaining Lawn

Another great benefit of adding microclover to your lawn is that it ostensibly produces a self-sustaining lawn that requires less maintenance than other plant and grass mixes.

This is because, like other perennial clover plants, microclover can absorb nitrogen from the atmosphere, providing it as a natural source for surrounding grasses and plants and ensuring your lawn is greener and lusher throughout the year.

A Microclover Lawn is Easier to Maintain

Microclover is also well-favored because it is easier to maintain than other lawn or pasture plant mixes. Microclover was developed to grow at a slower rate and up to a lower height. This means adding it to your lawns requires less mowing over time compared to a more traditional lawn.

Microclovers Attract Good Bugs & Chase Out Bad Ones

Yet another incredible benefit of having microclover as part of your lawn is that it reduces the number of lawn pests, like grubs and beetles, reducing the need to use pesticides in order to protect your other plants. It also attracts pollinators like bees, creating a safe and healthy environment across your yard or pasture.

Microclover Easily Blends With Your Grass Lawn

Microclover is also known to blend well with certain varieties of grasses, creating beautiful, vibrant lawns and pastures. When added along with grass lawns, microclover can fill bare spots and make sure your entire landscape looks lush, green, and full.

Microclover Reduces Weed Growth

Finally, one of the best reasons for favoring microclover is that it can reduce weed growth in your yard or pasture. It does this by overcrowding and out-competing weeds with its dense root structure, eliminating weeds and making more room for grass.

Those are just some of the benefits that come from adding microclover to your lawn or pasture plant mix. However, it may not be perfect for everyone. Make sure to consider your local climate and the conditions of your surrounding environment, then reach out to longtime experts to get the best microclover and lawn seed mix possible.

Get Premium-Quality Microclover Seed from Nature’s Seed

Drawbacks of Having Micro Clover in Your Yard

While adding microclover to one’s yard can bring numerous benefits, there are some drawbacks that may deter some from including it. Here are a few things that may hinder you from wanting to plant micro clover on your lawn:

Micro Clover Lawns May Not Appeal To Everyone

Many property owners seek a traditional lawn that appears clean-cut and uniform in appearance. However, adding microclover to the already existing growth of your lawn may disrupt this uniformity, making it less appealing to certain individuals.

Microclover is Invasive

Another potential drawback of growing microclover on your existing lawn is that it can spread rapidly across your lawn, possibly invading areas you may not want it to grow in. In certain cases, it may even outcompete certain plants and grasses, making it an unintentionally dominant plant in your yard’s ecosystem.

Dead Microclover Can Produce a Thatch Layer

Over time, dead grass and other plants decompose into the ground, sometimes creating a thatch layer above your soil. In some cases, mismanaged microclover can quickly develop a thatch layer, making it difficult for water to penetrate into the soil and could potentially kill your lawn.

Micro Clover Looks Less Appealing During Winter

During the winter, microclover tends to turn brown in color. This doesn’t mean the plants have died but rather have gone into winter dormancy. It may not occur often in very warm winter areas, but in areas with high freezing winter temperatures, this effect can make your lawn look much less appealing compared to other plants that are more cold-hardy.

Microclover is Sensitive to Herbicides

Another drawback of having microclover as part of your lawn is that it is weak to most broadleaf herbicides, making it that much more difficult for you to eliminate broadleaf weeds. This can be a big problem for some, making microclover an undesirable choice to add to their lawn or pasture mix.

Microclover Attracts Bees

While bees are natural pollinators that can help foster the growth of many plants across your landscape, some might find the fact that microclovers attract them as a negative trait. Whether you are allergic to them or see them as another pest that disturbs the peace you want to find in your landscape, this could be yet another drawback for some.

Learn everything you can about micro clover seed, white dutch clover, and other types of pasture or lawn mixes before adding them to your yard

Developing Microclover with Lawn Grass

If you decide to add microclover to your lawn, there are a number of practices to follow so that you grow it properly and get the most from its benefits. Here are some crucial steps to take when introducing micro clover to your existing lawn:

• Check for compatible grass – Before anything else, do research, speak with experts, and find out if the grass in your existing lawn is compatible with microclover. Fine fescues and certain types of Kentucky bluegrass mix well with it. On the other hand, if your current grass doesn’t work with a microclover, yet you desire a microclover and grass lawn, we would recommend removing existing growth and revegetating with new microclover and lawn grass seeds.
• Preparing soil surface – While checking the current state of your lawn, also be sure to test the soil to determine if its pH and nutrient levels are a good fit for microclover, which prefers a slightly acidic to neutral pH. If you aren’t certain if it will fit, make sure to discuss the matter with seed experts. Furthermore, perform essential soil preparation practices, such as tilling the soil, removing rocks and debris, as well as leveling the ground.
• Sowing seeds – After a thorough soil prep, you can either mix grass and microclover seeds yourself or purchase a mixed microclover and grass seed blend from a trusted source like Nature’s Seed. Use a broadcast spreader or similar tools to scatter seeds densely around your lawn or pasture. Then, gently compress seeds into the soil using a roller or by walking around the sowed area, ensuring solid seed-to-soil contact.
• Watering seeds – Initially, you’ll want to water the area thoroughly after you plant microclover seeds, ensuring the soil is moist but not soggy. After the microclover and grass lawn have been established, you’ll be able to water it a bit less as both are quite drought-tolerant. However, during particularly long periods of dry and hot weather, it is necessary to give your microclovers a good, deep watering to ensure they stay hydrated and also to keep your lawn or pasture looking its best.

In addition, the best time to plant microclover is during the early fall and spring. Make sure to plant the seeds two weeks before the last frost date and eight weeks before the first average frost date in the fall season. Furthermore, avoid planting during the time of year when you experience the hottest temperatures, as microclover prefers cooler temperatures.

Maintaining Microclover

Once you have established your microclover and grass lawn, you’ll want to maintain its healthy and lush appearance. This requires sticking to this set of routine practices that ensure a continuously beautiful microclover and grass lawn:

1. Mow less frequently – Because microclover grows at a much slower rate than traditional lawn grasses, you should mow it less frequently. In addition, when you do, cut at a height of around 3 inches, as this will allow the microclover to flower and attract bees and other pollinators during the spring.
2. Fertilize with care – As mentioned previously, microclover is a natural fertilizer, as it is able to fix nitrogen and provide it to grasses and other plants in the surrounding area, thus reducing the need for you to fertilize them. However, if you would like to fertilize your grass, microclovers, and other plants, be sure to use one that is friendly to micro clover growth, as there are many types of lawn fertilizers that are harmful to it.
3. Overseed – As your lawn continues to grow and mature, consider overseeding it with the same mixture of grass and microclover seeds every one or two years so that there is a healthy balance of both as time goes on while also rejuvenating the lawn’s integrity.
4. Remove weeds carefully – Most herbicides are harmful to microclovers, so if you are seeking to remove some particularly difficult weeds from your lawn or pasture, consider using a microclover-safe herbicide or pulling them out by hand.
5. Watch out for overcrowding – If you notice that your micro clover has begun to overcrowd the rest of our lawn’s grass, it is a good idea to mow more frequently to reduce its spread and also lower the number of micro clover seeds you use next time your are planting your grass-micro clover seed mix.

Properly maintaining a microclover-grass lawn is simpler than for most traditional lawns but still requires consistent care and attention to detail, as the continued health of your microclover lawn requires you to consider the conditions of your surrounding area and the overall environment. To ensure you get the best out of your micro clover lawn, talk to experienced seed experts.

Find the Best Seed for Your Landscape with Our Seed Selector Tool

Get the Best Micro Clover Seed from Nature’s Seed

Adding microclover to your well-manicured lawn will make it lusher, healthier, and more appealing throughout the spring and summer. It is also an enduring plant to include in your garden, lawn, or pasture. These are just a few of the reasons why it’s such a popular item of ours.

Nature’s Seed provides top-quality micro-clover seed, as well as a wide variety of pasture, wildflower, and lawn seed mixes. Contact us today, and our experts will help you find the absolute best seeding mix for your property.

Frequently Asked Questions About Microclover

How Much Does Micro Clover Seed Cost?

The precise cost of micro clover seed depends on a number of factors, such as the brand, quality, where you are purchasing it from, and whether or not it is a grass-microclover seed mix or a pure micro clover mix. Furthermore, prices tend to fluctuate over time and across different regions.

Nature Seed’s own Microclover® seeds provide a 0.5 lb bag that covers 500 sq ft and a 1 lb bag that covers 1000 sq ft, enough to cover plenty of your lawn or pasture. Order today, and we’ll ship a fresh bag of our best microclover seed right to your door.

Does Microclover Handle Foot Traffic Well?

No, microclover is delicate against heavy foot traffic. If you are seeking to add it to your lawn, make sure to add it in areas where very little activity occurs. What’s better is to mix your micro clover with turf grass seeds so that your lawn or pasture can better handle foot traffic – it is important to note that even this mix can only withstand moderate foot traffic throughout the year.

How Much Should I Water Microclover Lawns?

Because of its high drought tolerance, you aren’t required to water it very often. However, if you want to help it achieve optimal growth, particularly when it is first establishing itself in the soil of your lawn, make sure to water your micro clover regularly.

Is Microclover Safe for Pets?

Yes, micro clover is a pet-friendly plant that won’t have a harmful effect if it were to be ingested by a curious house pet. However, it is still advised to ensure pets don’t consume it excessively, as it may cause similar effects as over-eating other plants inside and outside your home.

Add Clover to your Grass Today!

Proper lawn care throughout the summer encourages a healthy, lush, and aesthetically pleasing lawn. Regular watering, mowing, and maintenance practices help maintain vibrant green color, thick turf, and a visually appealing lawn. Summer can bring intense heat, drought, and increased foot traffic on lawns.

By implementing appropriate care practices, such as deep watering, proper mowing, and pest control, you can help your lawn withstand these stressors and remain resilient.

Summer is a prime time for an influx in weed growth and pest infestations. Sustaining a healthy and well-maintained lawn helps reduce soil erosion, filters pollutants, improve air quality, and provides a beautiful place to enjoy. Whether it’s a backyard barbecue, a game of catch, or simply enjoying the view from your porch, your outdoor experience can certainly be enhanced by a healthy lawn.

Warm-Season Lawn Care

Watering: Deeply water your lawn infrequently, but thoroughly, especially during hot and dry periods. Aim to water approximately 1-1.5 inches per week: preferably in the morning or evening when air flow is at its calmest – to avoid evaporation. You can also set an automatic timer during this time to consistently water for you.

More lawn issues arise from overwatering than underwatering. Warm-season grasses are particularly drought-tolerant depending on your soil type. Sandy soils may require more frequent watering, but not necessarily more water per week. Avoid puddles and runoff.

Remember: Lingering footprints in grass and light blue-green color can be signs of minor drought. All grasses under stress are susceptible to disease.

Drought-tolerance: Warm-season grasses are typically more drought-tolerant than cool-season grasses. Allowing your lawn to partially dry out between waterings encourages deep root growth. This will help develop more robust root systems.

Sharpen Mower Blades: Ensure your mower blades are sharp enough to cleanly cut your lawn. Dull blades can tear the grass, leading to browning and disease susceptibility.

Mowing: In the summer, a shorter grass height is recommended for warm-season grasses. Keep the height between 2.5 and 3.5 inches.

Remember: Do not remove more than one-third of the grass height at the time of mowing – this avoids lawn stress. Also, scalping, or mowing too frequently can accelerate the growth rate, reduce quality, and canopy density, and encourage weed encroachment.

Fertilization: Apply a slow-release nitrogen-rich fertilizer in the late spring/early summer. About 0.5-1lb. per 1000 sq ft.

Remember: Be cautious not to overfertilize, as this can lead to excessive growth and increased maintenance requirements.

Weed Control: Monitor for weeds, and promptly address them. Apply pre-emergent herbicides in late spring or early summer to prevent germination of summer weeds – when temperatures are no higher than 85 degrees – as this can cause injury to turf. Spot-treat any existing weeds with appropriate post-emergent herbicides or remove them manually.

Remember: Even healthy grass can see weeds pop through here and there. Make sure to read your labels on when you should apply weed control and at what the max temperature for application is before applying.

Pest & Disease Management: Keep an eye out for common pests such as grubs, armyworms, or chinch bugs. Chinch bugs may sporadically occur in buffalograss or zoysiagrass. Billbug damage may occur on zoysiagrass. White grub damage is uncommon. Apply appropriate insecticides if necessary.

Maintain Irrigation Systems: Regularly check your irrigation system for leaks, clogs, or inefficiencies. Ensure that sprinklers are functioning, and that water is being distributed evenly across the lawn. Adjust settings as needed to provide even coverage.

Seeding: Now is the time you can begin establishment for warm-season grasses if you haven’t already! The risk of frost has passed, and now varieties such as buffalograss and zoysiagrass can be seeded or plugged.

Tips:

• Application of post-emergent herbicides is not recommended in the late summer (August-September); especially since herbicides have a max temperature they can be used before causing stress to your lawn. Summer annual weeds will naturally die after the first frost.
• Frequent shallow sprinkling of water is not recommended. It only encourages shallow, weak roots, crabgrass, and disease development.
• Now is a great time to get a soil test, to learn more about your soil!

Cool-Season Lawn Care

Watering: Deeply water your lawn infrequently, but thoroughly, especially during hot and dry periods. Aim to water approximately 1-1.5 inches per week: preferably in the morning or evening when air flow is at its calmest – to avoid evaporation. You can also set an automatic timer during this time to consistently water for you.

More lawn issues arise from overwatering than underwatering. Cool-season grasses are susceptible to fungal growth due to overwatering. Sandy soils may require more frequent watering, but not necessarily more water per week. Avoid puddles and runoff.

Remember: All grasses under stress are susceptible to disease.

Side Note: Bluegrasses, fescues, and other cool-season grasses naturally go semi-dormant to protect themselves in the summer during periods of high temperatures and drought. They can cease to grow or turn brown but bounce back quickly with sufficient water and cooler temperatures, typically by September. Due to its deep root system, tall fescue remains greener for a longer period during the summer than other cool-season grasses. 

Mowing: Adjust your mower blade to a higher setting to maintain a taller grass height. Longer grass shades the soil, reducing evaporation and weed growth. Keep the height between 2.5 and 3.5 inches. Allow clippings to remain on your lawn unless excessive.

Tall Fescue: 3-4 inches

Kentucky Bluegrass: 2-3.5 inches

Perennial Ryegrass: 2.5-3.5 inches

Fescue: 2-3 inches

Remember: Do not remove more than one-third of the grass height at the time of mowing – this avoids lawn stress. Also, scalping, or mowing too frequently can accelerate the growth rate, reduce quality, and canopy density, and encourage weed encroachment.

Sharpen Mower Blades: Ensure your mower blades are sharp enough to cleanly cut your lawn. Dull blades can tear the grass, leading to browning and disease susceptibility.

Fertilization: Avoid fertilizing cool-season grasses during the summer, as it can promote lush growth and increase water requirements. Early May is the best time to fertilize cool-season grasses.

Remember: Save fertilization for the fall when cool-season grass is actively growing.

Weed Control: Monitor for weeds, and promptly address them. Spot-treat any existing weeds with appropriate post-emergent herbicides or remove them manually.

Remember: Even healthy grass can see weeds pop through here and there. Make sure to read your labels on when you should apply weed control and at what the max temperature for application is before applying.

Pest & Disease Management: Keep an eye out for common pests such as grubs, armyworms, or chinch bugs. Apply appropriate insecticides if necessary.

Maintain Irrigation Systems: Regularly check your irrigation system for leaks, clogs, or inefficiencies. Ensure that sprinklers are functioning, and that water is being distributed evenly across the lawn. Adjust settings as needed to provide even coverage.

Tips:

• Cool-season grasses can be less tolerant to stress in hot weather, so it is recommended to limit heavy foot traffic and heavy objects on your lawn during the summer months.
• Frequent shallow sprinkling of water is not recommended. It only encourages shallow, weak roots, crabgrass, and disease development.
• In the last week of August, soak dormant lawns to start fall growth.
• Now is a great time to get a soil test, to learn more about your soil!

What will help me this season?

Organic Maintenance Fertilizer 18-1-8+fe

Organic-based slow-released nitrogen fertilizer blend with Iron; ideal for top-dressing lawns, fairways, and sports fields. Provides 12-16 weeks of nutrient release.

Organic Seed Starter Fertilizer 4-6-4

Organic-based slow-released starter fertilizer replenishes soils with a rich supply of humus and essential nutrients. Increase the nutrient and water-holding capacity of the soil., strengthens plants’ tolerance against dry conditions, increases soil’s ability to suppress plant pathogens, and increases soil porosity and stability for great root development and water-holding capacity.

Seed Aide® – Cover Grow, Water Retaining Seed Starting Mulch

Advanced technology pellet made from recycled wood and cellulose fibers. Pellets quickly expand when activated by water, dispersing to provide outstanding protection and water-holding performance where needed. Can be used as a spot treatment for bare spots, or hydro spraying larger areas.

Shoulder Strap Broadcast Seed Spreader

Corrosion, tear, and weather resistant 20lb. nylon bag hopper is equipped with a zippered top for easy filling and closure. Contoured modeled base, adjustable shoulder strap, rocking agitator, spring load shut-off, and a collapsable body for easy storage.

Why Does Timing Matter?

Your grass will grow faster and stronger if you plant during your seed’s most active growth periods. Ease type of lawn seed varies in growth cycles depending on their regional climate preferences. Cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass seeds grow most actively during this time of the year. When timed correctly, your seeds will germinate quickly and be put on the best track possible for long-term lawn success.

What’s So Special About Fall?

The Fall season comes with the perfect mix of warm soil and cool air. Paired with fertilization, this combination allows for the growth of newer, stronger roots. This results in a greener and thicker lawn come springtime. Newly planted seeds need your soil to be consistently moist. Thankfully, Fall brings more precipitation so the chance of your seeds drying out diminishes greatly!

How Do I Know Exactly When To Plant?

Keep an eye out for when temperatures are between 50 and 65 degrees fahrenheit. This is the perfect time to plant your seeds. In general, as long as you plant 45 days before the estimated date of the first fall frost, your timing will be perfect.